20km northwest of Hamilton is Ngaruawahia, once capital of a Maori kingdom of the Waikato tribes, where Chief Te Wherowhero was elected king as Potatau I in 1858. The present queen (since 1966) is the sixth (and first female) ruler of the Waikato tribes. A new king or queen is elected in a solemn ceremonial at the end of the tangi mourning
ceremonies for the dead ruler, in the presence of the body on its bier.
During the land wars, which rapidly spread from Taranaki to the Waikato area, it became evident that the situation of the royal residence at the two rivers was a source of danger rather than security. After British gunboats on the Waikato had taken the Maori strongholds at Meremere and Rangiriri in 1863, Ngaruawahia was abandoned without a fight. After the battle of Orakau the king sought refuge with the tribes in King Country.
Maori land was then surveyed by the government and sold. Even after peace was concluded in 1881 it was many years before a new residence of the Maori kings was established here. Finally in 1920 land on the river was bought back from settlers and the stronghold of Turangawaewae Pa was built. A major part in the rebuilding of the royal residence was played by the Maori princess Te Puea Hernagi (1884-1952). The first building erected was the Arehurewa shrine for relics, followed in 1923 by the Kiwikiwi meeting house. The first post of the Mahinarangi meeting house was driven into the ground by the famous Maori politician Apirana Ngati. Turongo was built in 1933, a residence for King Koroki designed by Princess Te Puea (a richly carved six-sided tower-like structure). The Kimiora Cultural Complex (1974) contains a large mural. The queen's palace is not open to the public; it can be entered only on special occasions.