Xochicalco 
How to get there
By bus from Cuernavaca in the direction of Miacatlán, alighting at the turning off for Xochicalco and then 4km/2.5mi on foot; by car from Cuernavaca for 28km/17mi southwards on the MEX 95 to the village of Alpuyeca, then take a right turning to "Grutas" and proceed for 8km/5mi until the turning to Xochicalco (4km/2.5mi).
The fortress-like ruins of Xochicalco stretch for 130 m (426 ft) across a wide mountain plateau, on which platforms have been created by deposits of soil and erosion.
By bus from Cuernavaca in the direction of Miacatlán, alighting at the turning off for Xochicalco and then 4km/2.5mi on foot; by car from Cuernavaca for 28km/17mi southwards on the MEX 95 to the village of Alpuyeca, then take a right turning to "Grutas" and proceed for 8km/5mi until the turning to Xochicalco (4km/2.5mi).
The fortress-like ruins of Xochicalco stretch for 130 m (426 ft) across a wide mountain plateau, on which platforms have been created by deposits of soil and erosion.
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Must-see attractions nearby:
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As almost nothing is known about the people who built this site, and the finds which have so far been made point to the influence of several advanced civilisations, the history of Xochicalco remains one of the great mysteries of archaeology of Meso-America.
History
Xochicalco (Náhuatl: "in the house of the flowers") was probably settled around 500 bc. It is unlikely that the site attained any importance until the 7th and 8th c. when it developed into an important trading centre in the wake of the decline of Teotihuacán. Here, at the point of intersection of both northern and southern civilisations, there are influences of Teotihuacán as well as the culture groups of the Mayas, Zapotecs, Mixtecs and Toltecs. Later Xochicalco became an important centre of learning, in which apparently Ce Acatl Topiltzín is supposed to have received his education about the middle of the 10th c., before going on to become the legendary creator of the Toltecs' advanced civilisation in Tula and their god king, with the epithet Quetzalcóatl. Xochicalco is not thought to have been developed as a fortress until the 9th c. But as early as ad 900 the town started to forfeit its importance and only a short time later the end came, with the town either being conquered by other tribes or being abandoned for economic reasons. The population was absorbed by Toltecs, Tlahuicas and Aztecs in the course of time.
The first Spanish description of Xochicalco dates from the 16th c. and was written by Pater Bernardino de Sahagún. The first excavations were carried out by Pater José Antonio Alzate in 1777. At the beginning of the 19th c. Alexander von Humboldt spent some time here. In 1877 exploration and restoration work was carried out by A. Peñafiel and in 1910 by Leopoldo Batres. Since the 1960s the Instituto Nacional de Arqueología e Historia has been working in Xochicalco under the direction of the Mexican archaeologists Eduardo Noguera and César A. Sáenz.
Stylistic Trends
In Xochicalco there is evidence of the influence of various Mexican civilisations:
Maya: ball court, reliefs of seated persons, beams and marks as numbers, steam bath.
Teotihuacán: modified talud-tablero style, glyphs, figurines, ceramics.
Zapotecs: beams and marks as numbers.
Toltecs: names of warriors and priests, ceramics.
Mixtecs: ceramics.
The Ruins
The total area of the former religious and military metropolis covers more than 12sq.km/5sq.mi, while the actual religious centre extends over about 1200 m (3939 ft) from north to south and over about 700 m (2298 ft) from east to west. From the highest point there is a splendid view of mountains, plains and lakes.
History
Xochicalco (Náhuatl: "in the house of the flowers") was probably settled around 500 bc. It is unlikely that the site attained any importance until the 7th and 8th c. when it developed into an important trading centre in the wake of the decline of Teotihuacán. Here, at the point of intersection of both northern and southern civilisations, there are influences of Teotihuacán as well as the culture groups of the Mayas, Zapotecs, Mixtecs and Toltecs. Later Xochicalco became an important centre of learning, in which apparently Ce Acatl Topiltzín is supposed to have received his education about the middle of the 10th c., before going on to become the legendary creator of the Toltecs' advanced civilisation in Tula and their god king, with the epithet Quetzalcóatl. Xochicalco is not thought to have been developed as a fortress until the 9th c. But as early as ad 900 the town started to forfeit its importance and only a short time later the end came, with the town either being conquered by other tribes or being abandoned for economic reasons. The population was absorbed by Toltecs, Tlahuicas and Aztecs in the course of time.
The first Spanish description of Xochicalco dates from the 16th c. and was written by Pater Bernardino de Sahagún. The first excavations were carried out by Pater José Antonio Alzate in 1777. At the beginning of the 19th c. Alexander von Humboldt spent some time here. In 1877 exploration and restoration work was carried out by A. Peñafiel and in 1910 by Leopoldo Batres. Since the 1960s the Instituto Nacional de Arqueología e Historia has been working in Xochicalco under the direction of the Mexican archaeologists Eduardo Noguera and César A. Sáenz.
Stylistic Trends
In Xochicalco there is evidence of the influence of various Mexican civilisations:
Maya: ball court, reliefs of seated persons, beams and marks as numbers, steam bath.
Teotihuacán: modified talud-tablero style, glyphs, figurines, ceramics.
Zapotecs: beams and marks as numbers.
Toltecs: names of warriors and priests, ceramics.
Mixtecs: ceramics.
The Ruins
The total area of the former religious and military metropolis covers more than 12sq.km/5sq.mi, while the actual religious centre extends over about 1200 m (3939 ft) from north to south and over about 700 m (2298 ft) from east to west. From the highest point there is a splendid view of mountains, plains and lakes.
Related Attractions
Ball Court
The ball court (juego de pelota), the only one of several in Xochicalco to have been restored, is roughly in the middle of the cultural centre of the site. From east to west it measures 69 m (226 ft) and is bounded at the sides and ends by sloping walls. The stone rings which served as marker posts for the ritual game of "tlachtli" were set into the side walls. In its layout and equipment the court shows similarities with those in the Maya area, but also with the one at Tula.
Buildings
From the ball court a 20 m (66 ft) wide road (Gran Calzada) leads westwards to a series of buildings, while parallel to the Gran Calzada there is a row of low circular platforms, which were possibly altars. The first building in the series is Building B (Edificio B), also called a palace, with priests' dwelling-rooms, steam bath and patios; the next one is Building A (Edificio A), a religious building, and finally the Cerro de la Malinche, a raised-up area of ground with a terrace in the form of a flattened pyramid, from which there is a fine view.
Eco Museum
A little way outside the archaeological zone is the Eco Museum, opened in 1996, which stores energy from the sun and rainwater. In six rooms all the finds from Xochicalco since 1993 are on display, including a massive ceramic figure of a jaguar.
Plaza Inferior
If beginning the visit at the entrance square (Plaza Inferior), the first thing the visitor will see are two restored pyramid buildings with stepped levels, referred to as Buildings C and D. Between them is the Altar of the Stela of the Glyphs (Adoratorio de la Estela de los Glifos), where a large stela with hieroglyphs, almost 3 m (10 ft) high and 6 tons in weight, was excavated.
Pyramid of the Feathered Serpents
A little further to the north of the sacrifice chamber is the most important building in Xochicalco, the Pyramid of the Feathered Serpents (Pirámide de las Serpientes Emplumadas), which has also been called the Uncovered Monument (Monumento Descubierto). It is thought that this building (base 21 3 18.60 m (69 3 61 ft)) may have been erected to commemorate an important gathering of priest-astronomers.
The building consists of two levels, of which only the lower section has been preserved in its entirety. It is built in the talud-tablero style, although here, in contrast to the building methods customarily employed in Teotihuacán, the sloping wall predominates. On this wall superb bas-reliefs can be seen, depicting eight feathered serpents encircling glyphs and seated human figures. They were once coloured white, red, black, blue and yellow, but were finally painted over completely in red, the colour of death, probably as a sign of imminent destruction. The glyphs on either side of the steps (three symbols of day) possibly indicate an amendment to the sacred calendar. On the sides of the steep face of the building it is possible to distinguish illustrations in relief of seated figures, stylised serpents and calendar glyphs now in poor condition. Above the ledge which juts out over the steep wall of the first storey there is a frieze made up of patterns of stylised shells, which have been connected with the god Quetzalcóatl.
The sloping wall, which is partially covered with poorly preserved reliefs, is the only remaining part of the upper section of the building. The outer wall encloses an almost square temple hall (11 3 10.50 m (36 3 33 ft)), which is thought by some researchers, although this theory is disputed, to have been open to the elements, hence the building's name of "Monumento Descubierto". On the right-angled walls on either side of the entrance it is possible to make out the delineation of a coyote and symbols for fire.
The building consists of two levels, of which only the lower section has been preserved in its entirety. It is built in the talud-tablero style, although here, in contrast to the building methods customarily employed in Teotihuacán, the sloping wall predominates. On this wall superb bas-reliefs can be seen, depicting eight feathered serpents encircling glyphs and seated human figures. They were once coloured white, red, black, blue and yellow, but were finally painted over completely in red, the colour of death, probably as a sign of imminent destruction. The glyphs on either side of the steps (three symbols of day) possibly indicate an amendment to the sacred calendar. On the sides of the steep face of the building it is possible to distinguish illustrations in relief of seated figures, stylised serpents and calendar glyphs now in poor condition. Above the ledge which juts out over the steep wall of the first storey there is a frieze made up of patterns of stylised shells, which have been connected with the god Quetzalcóatl.
The sloping wall, which is partially covered with poorly preserved reliefs, is the only remaining part of the upper section of the building. The outer wall encloses an almost square temple hall (11 3 10.50 m (36 3 33 ft)), which is thought by some researchers, although this theory is disputed, to have been open to the elements, hence the building's name of "Monumento Descubierto". On the right-angled walls on either side of the entrance it is possible to make out the delineation of a coyote and symbols for fire.
Pyramid of the Stelae
Beyond the poorly preserved Building A stands the Pyramid of the Stelae (Pirámide de las Estelas), on the highest level area of the site, with a 15 m (49 ft) wide stairway leading up to its temple. Three 1.80 m (6 ft) high stelae with reliefs of Tláloc, the sun god, and his wife, the moon goddess, were found here. These sculptures, dating back to ad 600 and 700, probably represent an agricultural cycle expressing the wish for an abundant harvest. The symbolism calls to mind El Tajín, but also the central area of the Mayas. The three stelae are on display in the Anthropological Museum in Mexico City.
Sacrifice Chamber
To the right of the Pyramid of the Stelae, at the foot of the steps, there was once the shrine of the sacrifice chamber (Cámara de las Ofrendas), in which sacrificial offerings such as stone figurines, a jade head, obsidian arrowheads and human bones have been found.
Underground Passages and Chambers
Proceeding westwards from the Pyramid of the Feathered Serpents to Hill A and from there down the northern slope, the visitor will come to the underground passages and chambers (Subterráneos) to the left of the entrance. From a large hall a wide flight of steps leads across three ledges to a passageway. Another path leading from the entrance hall ends in a higher room (19 m (62 ft) long, 12 m (39 ft) wide and 3.50 m (115 ft) high), in which there are three square columns (4 3 2 m (13 3 7 ft)). In the corner there is an air shaft which was probably used for astronomical observations. At the time of the solstice on June 21st the sun shines down the shaft and illuminates the chamber. In this area there are still a number of known and unknown underground passages which are gradually being opened up. The Subterráneos are from time to time closed to visitors.
Xochicalco Surroundings
Cuahtetelco, Mexico
About 20km/12.4mi to the south-west (4km/2.5mi from Mazatepec) lies the township of Coatetelco (Náhuatl: "hill of the snakes") on the lake of the same name. In a small archaeological zone the visitor will find the partially excavated site of Cuahtetelco with an archaeological museum in which stone sculptures, ceramics and other artistic relics of the various civilisations (Teotihuacán, Tlahuicas and Aztecs, etc.) can be seen.
