Texcoco de Mora Attractions
How to get there
From Mexico City by bus (departure from Terminal del Oriente near the metro station Candelaría); by car 20km/12.4mi past the airport on the road leading across the dried-up Texcoco Lake or 44km/27mi on the MEX 190 and 136 via Los Reyes.
From the 14th to the 16th c. Texcoco had a historically important role. Founded on the edge of the lake of the same name (today dried-up), the town rivalled Tenochtitlán, the Aztec metropolis which had been built on an island in what was then a lake. Today Texcoco, conveniently situated not far to the north-west of Mexico City, is a trading centre for woollen clothing, ceramics and glass with a surrounding area which boasts many archaeological sites and artistic treasures from the colonial period.
History
The Chichimecs, who under their leader Xólotl had founded Tenayuca in the 13th c., under Quinatzin moved their capital city at the beginning of the 14th c. to Texcoco (Náhuatl: "place of the large rocks"), which had already been founded in the Toltec period. In the second half of the 14th c. the town came under the ruling influence of the Tepanecs of Atzcapotzalco (Náhuatl: "anthill of men"). Finally in 1428 the Tepanecs were defeated by an alliance between the Mexica and Texcoco and the kingdom of Texcoco was restored in 1431. Its benevolent ruler Netzahualcóyotl ("hungry coyote"; 1418-72), who became legendary as a poet and warrior, concluded a tripartite alliance with Tenochtitlán and Tlacopán (Tacuba) and in so doing ushered in Texcoco's golden age. Politically the city state, which developed a reputation as a spiritual and artistic centre, was under the dominance of the warlike Mexica. After the death of Netzahualcóyotl's son and successor Netzahualpilli (1472-1515) there were disputes about the succession which were exploited by the Mexica to the disadvantage of Texcoco. After the town was occupied by the Spanish in 1521 without any great resistance, Texcoco became the launching-place for the ships built in Tlaxcala, which played a decisive role in defeating the lakeside town of Tenochtitlán. It is estimated that the population of Texcoco grew to as much as 150,000 after the Spanish conquest. Soon after their arrival the Franciscans built a school for the Indians. Hernán Cortés, who lived in Texcoco intermittently, is supposed to have buried his first wife there in 1530, then later his mother and in 1536 a son. The plague epidemic of 1575-76 decimated the population and a century later Texcoco was no more than an insignificant small town.
Sights
The old splendours of the town are scarcely noticeable any longer. Of the Franciscan convent built next to the Palace of Netzahualpilli the entrance hall with the Open Chapel and a Renaissance cloister are all that remain. The beautiful Spanish-Plateresque north doorway in the parish church is notable, while the portal of the Capilla de la Concepción ("La Conchita") is a particularly fine example of the 16th c. Indian stonemason's craft known as "Tequitqui".
From Mexico City by bus (departure from Terminal del Oriente near the metro station Candelaría); by car 20km/12.4mi past the airport on the road leading across the dried-up Texcoco Lake or 44km/27mi on the MEX 190 and 136 via Los Reyes.
From the 14th to the 16th c. Texcoco had a historically important role. Founded on the edge of the lake of the same name (today dried-up), the town rivalled Tenochtitlán, the Aztec metropolis which had been built on an island in what was then a lake. Today Texcoco, conveniently situated not far to the north-west of Mexico City, is a trading centre for woollen clothing, ceramics and glass with a surrounding area which boasts many archaeological sites and artistic treasures from the colonial period.
History
The Chichimecs, who under their leader Xólotl had founded Tenayuca in the 13th c., under Quinatzin moved their capital city at the beginning of the 14th c. to Texcoco (Náhuatl: "place of the large rocks"), which had already been founded in the Toltec period. In the second half of the 14th c. the town came under the ruling influence of the Tepanecs of Atzcapotzalco (Náhuatl: "anthill of men"). Finally in 1428 the Tepanecs were defeated by an alliance between the Mexica and Texcoco and the kingdom of Texcoco was restored in 1431. Its benevolent ruler Netzahualcóyotl ("hungry coyote"; 1418-72), who became legendary as a poet and warrior, concluded a tripartite alliance with Tenochtitlán and Tlacopán (Tacuba) and in so doing ushered in Texcoco's golden age. Politically the city state, which developed a reputation as a spiritual and artistic centre, was under the dominance of the warlike Mexica. After the death of Netzahualcóyotl's son and successor Netzahualpilli (1472-1515) there were disputes about the succession which were exploited by the Mexica to the disadvantage of Texcoco. After the town was occupied by the Spanish in 1521 without any great resistance, Texcoco became the launching-place for the ships built in Tlaxcala, which played a decisive role in defeating the lakeside town of Tenochtitlán. It is estimated that the population of Texcoco grew to as much as 150,000 after the Spanish conquest. Soon after their arrival the Franciscans built a school for the Indians. Hernán Cortés, who lived in Texcoco intermittently, is supposed to have buried his first wife there in 1530, then later his mother and in 1536 a son. The plague epidemic of 1575-76 decimated the population and a century later Texcoco was no more than an insignificant small town.
Sights
The old splendours of the town are scarcely noticeable any longer. Of the Franciscan convent built next to the Palace of Netzahualpilli the entrance hall with the Open Chapel and a Renaissance cloister are all that remain. The beautiful Spanish-Plateresque north doorway in the parish church is notable, while the portal of the Capilla de la Concepción ("La Conchita") is a particularly fine example of the 16th c. Indian stonemason's craft known as "Tequitqui".
Texcoco de Mora Surroundings
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Huexotla, Mexico
The small town of Huexotla lies within a large archeological site, with much still to be uncovered.
Agricultural College
3km/2mi south of Texcoco in the main building of the agricultural college (Escuela Nacional de la Agricultura) of Chapingo can be found some of the best frescos of Diego Riveras, in which he depicts the agrarian revolution, the earth's prolificity and a better future for mankind.
Chiconcuac, Mexico
About 7km/4.3mi to the north lies the village of Chiconcuac, which is known for its woollen goods (sarapes, rebozos, etc.). Not far away is the village of Papalotla, whose pretty little church of Santo Toribio has carved Baroque retablos and an atrium entrance with a beautifully crafted arch dating from the 18th c.
Molino de las Flores
The Hacienda Molino de las Flores ("mill of flowers"), situated 7km/4.3mi east of Texcoco, which was founded in 1616, is today completely dilapidated. The small Baroque chapels and the beautiful gardens are especially noteworthy. Nearby, at the Cerro de Texcotzingo, there are the remains of the magnificent former summer residence of Netzahualcóyotl with baths and "hanging gardens".
San Miguel Coatlinchan, Mexico
Further south of Huexotla lies the village of San Miguel Coatlinchán (Náhuatl: "house of the snake") with a pretty church consecrated to Saint Michael, a fortified building with a Baroque faáade and tiled tower. The stone sculpture weighing 167 t (164 tons) of the water goddess Chalchiuhtlicue, the sister and wife of the rain god Tláloc, was found nearby. Today it stands at the entrance to the National Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City.
Tepetlaoxtoc, Mexico
About 20km/12.4mi north-east of Texcoco in the village of Tepetlaoxtoc there is a Dominican convent dating from 1529, the cloister of which still has remains of frescos. An attractive fountain and an 18th c. church are also worth seeing there.
