Teotihuacán
|
|
How to get thereFrom Mexico City by metro line 5 to Autobuses del Norte, from there continuing by bus (Counter 8, Bay 6) or line 3 to Indios Verdes, from there also by bus; by car about 50km/31mi on Insurgentes Norte, which turns into the MEX 85.Teotihuacán, to date the largest pre-Columbian site so far excavated in Meso-America, is situated in an area devoid of all trees, on the edge of the high-lying valley of Anáhuac.
Both the symmetry of the enormous site and the unity of its architectural style make it one of the most impressive ruined cities in the world. In the first 600 years ad Teotihuacán was the most influential political, religious and cultural power in Central America. In 1988 Teotihuacán was declared a world cultural heritage site by UNESCO.Nothing is known of the original architects of Teotihuacán (Náhuatl: "place where man becomes God"), their language and more detailed history. It was once thought that the town had been inhabited by the Toltecs and it was only during the excavations at Tula that the discovery was made that Teotihuacán had already been abandoned or destroyed 200 years before the Toltecs came to power. The names which the city and its individual buildings are known by are either derived from Náhuatl or are of recent origin and therefore linguistically have nothing to do with their original creators.During the period defined as Proto-Teotihuacán (600-200 bc) village communities formed in the area and, towards the end of the period, a much larger village grew up in what became the north-west part of the later city. The earliest obsidian workshops also started at this time. The glasslike, mainly grey and green, obsidian stone was an essential material for many precision tools and important as a commodity in its own right.The actual emergence of the city itself occurred in the epoch known as Teotihuacán I (200 bc-0), with the north-south axis, the "Street of the Dead" and the main buildings, the sun and moon pyramids, already in place at the end of this period. Influences from Oaxaca are also detectable, as can be deduced from finds from the epoch of Monte Albán II.In the succeeding period, Teotihuacán II (AD 0-350), the city reached its greatest extent at an estimated 20sq.km/8sq.mi and indeed exceeded the area of the city of Rome as it then was. At this time the sun and moon pyramids were completed and the Quetzalcoátl temple and the citadel were built. In the area of fine arts important "thin orange" ceramics, three-footed cylindrical vessels with lids and monumental sculptures were all created.The next period, Teotihuacán III (AD 350-650), can be considered the city's heyday, when it probably had as many as 200,000 inhabitants. It is in this period that most of the additions were made to the buildings, principally the Quetzalcóatl temple and the moon pyramid. The Quetzalpapálotl palace was built and most of the wall paintings date from this period. The cultural cross-fertilisation which occurred reciprocally between Teotihuacán and Monte Albán, El Tajín, Panuco, Cholula, Guerrero and the Maya territory to the south reached incredible proportions. During the 5th and 6th c. the city of Teotihuacán exerted its strongest influence on the cultures and civilisations of Meso-America. It is not clear whether this occurred as a result of military conquests or through the peaceful means of politics, trade and religion. In any event there is definite evidence of the dominance which existed in this period in places as far removed from Teotihuacán as Xochichalco (Mor.), Cacaxtla (Tlax.), Kaminaljuyú (Guatemala) and in Petén (Guatemala, especially in Tikal).It was during the last period, Teotihuacán IV (AD 650-750), which began with further additions to the "Street of the Dead" and the creation of superlative wall paintings and ceramics, that the city came to a sudden and violent end, similar to that which befell the other classic advanced civilisations of Meso-America, albeit 200 years earlier. Although the causes are still not known even today, the fact that the ceremonial centre of the city was systematically destroyed suggests that the priests destroyed their temples themselves while under the sway of some external enemy (probably barbaric tribes from the north-west). It is also possible that uprisings challenging the rule of the priests or an economic crisis may have contributed to the city's downfall. The former metropolis was reduced to a mere regional centre, its 30,000 inhabitants living among the ruins alongside the foreign invaders.There is no doubt that the collapse of Teotihuacán sent shock waves throughout the whole of Meso-America, with centres of power going into decline and trading routes becoming severed. As a result an overall economic decline set in. For the civilisations which followed, such as the Toltecs and the Aztecs, the abandoned city of Teotihuacán was a ghost-town of mythical origin.After the ConquistaWhen the Spanish came here in 1519 after their defeat at Tenochtitlán (Noche triste), the old city was completely covered over with earth. The first excavations were undertaken in 1864 by Almaraz and these were followed in the 1880s by those of Désiré Charnay and Leopoldo Batres. Reconstructions carried out at the beginning of the 20th c. partially destroyed and falsified the original outlines of some of the main buildings. Further excavations and restorations carried out under Manuel Gamio and Ignacio Marquina in the 1920s, and other work started in 1962 by the Instituto Nacional de Arqueología e Historia, all resulted in outstanding achievements. This work has been continued by the Arizona State University. In 1988 UNESCO declared these ruins of Teotihuacán to be cultural heritage sites.The RuinsThe site has only been partially uncovered. The archaeological zone extends over an area of more than 20sq.km/8sq.mi, while the actual ceremonial centre occupies a mere 4.2sq.km/1.5sq.mi. When seeing the rather uniform-looking architecture, the observer would do well to remember that originally all the façades of the buildings would have been covered in a multi-coloured layer of stucco and were partly decorated with sculptures.
Official site:
www.visitmexico.com/en/teotihuacan
Opening hours:
7am-7pm
Entrance fee in MXN:
Adult $16.00
Related Attractions
Unidad Cultural
Beyond the entrance there is a museum housed in the Unidad Cultural. With its displays reinforced by chronological tables and a large model of the site it gives the visitor a good overview of the history of Teotihuacán. The museum was once the site of Teotihuacán's enormous market place.
Street of the Dead
Beyond the Unidad Cultural is the 4km/2.5mi long and 45 m (148 ft) wide main street "Miccaotli", erroneously called the "Street of the Dead" (Calle de los Muertos), which runs in a north-south direction from the moon pyramid. On crossing the street an impressive rectangular site is reached, surrounded by four platforms, known as the citadel (ciudadela). It is assumed that this was a place of worship and a dwelling-place for the priests and rulers. The ciudadela is a fine example of what is for Teotihuacán a style which recurs again and again, the talud-tablero style (sloping wall/sheer wall), with in this case the sheer part with its framed panels predominating. Frames and panels used to be covered with a thick layer of stucco, which was itself covered with colourful frescos. The talud-tablero style of building was borrowed in other pre-Columbian places (Monte Albán, Xochicalco, Kaminaljuyú, Tula, etc.), usually in a slightly altered form.
Temple of Quetzalcóatl
In the middle of the ciudadela stands the temple of Quetzalcóatl. This pyramid, which was twice extended upwards, is principally distinguished by its original 366 sculptures, a rarity in a city in which very few stone sculptures have been found. To whom this shrine was actually consecrated is not known, except that it has some connection with rain and maize. One of the two alternating types of sculptures is that of a serpent; its head is framed with blossom leaves or feathers, its body surrounded by shell and snail motives representing water. The other type of sculpture is a stylised mask, possibly that of the rain god Tláloc or a maize god, represented by large round eyes and a pair of fangs. The remains of paint can still be seen on the stone figures, which once must have been covered with stucco. In 1986 a burial chamber was discovered with the skeletons of 18 priests who, it would appear, underwent ritual sacrifice around AD 150. This sensational find offered proof that it was not just slaves and prisoners who were put to death in this way, but also high-ranking personages. The victims, whose hands had been tied behind their backs, had teeth inlaid with jade and other precious stones and were surrounded by shells, arrowheads and small clay figures.
Patio de los Cuatro Templitos
Returning from the Sun Pyramid along the "Street of the Dead", on the left on a terrace we see the remains of four temples, which have been called the Patio of the Four Small Temples (Patio de los Cuatro Templitos). Further on, on the right-hand side, we see a long primitive wall said to have been built by the Chichimecs. Behind it, underneath a protective roof, there are interesting wall paintings depicting a jaguar of about 2m/6.5ft in length. Before the street opens out into the Square of the Moon Pyramid (Plaza de la Pirámide de la Luna), we see on the left the Temple of the Mythological Animals (Templo de los Animales Mitológicos), in which the remains of frescos of animal figures have been found, and the Temple of Agriculture (Templo de la Agricultura), the original frescos of which, depicting plants, cannot be viewed - only copies of them.
Superimposed Buildings
Going on down the "Street of the Dead" in the direction of the moon pyramid, after some 400 m (1320 ft) we come to the remains of the Superimposed Buildings (Edificios Superpuestos) on our left. These once included an antechamber with six columns, a large courtyard with a staircase, a small temple, arcades and various other rooms. On some of the walls it is still possible to see the remains of frescos.
Viking Group
A little further to the north past the Superimposed Buildings we come to the Viking Group (Grupo Viking), which is named after an American foundation which has been active here. On this site, which includes two inner courtyards, two slabs of mica, each 6 cm (2in.) thick, were found in one of the courtyards. The purpose of these pieces of mica has given rise to much speculation.
Museum
South of the Sun Pyramid (Entrance 5) lies an excellent museum which was opened in 1995. It provides a general picture of the site and its former inhabitants, and contains recently uncovered finds as well as a communal grave containing nine male and four female sacrificial victims who were found near the Quetzalcoátl temple. Particularly impressive is the glass floor in the main room with a large model of Teotihuacán.
Square of the Moon Pyramid
The symmetry and layout of the site makes the Square of the Moon Pyramid (Plaza de la Pirámide de la Luna) at the end of the street one of the most impressive examples of architectural planning in the whole of Teotihuacán. This ceremonial area consists of steps and pyramid-like platforms, mostly of four storeys, which originally were crowned, like the main pyramid, with temples. In the middle there is a large rectangular altar.
Palace of the Quetzal Butterfly
On the left-hand side stands the Palace of the Quetzal Butterfly (Palacio del Quetzalpapálotl). This palace, which was probably used as living quarters by the high priests, is possibly the finest and most important dwelling-place in the city. It is richly decorated and boasts well-preserved frescos. A staircase, which is embellished by an enormous serpent's head, leads to an antechamber decorated with wall-paintings. This leads into a small arched courtyard with square columns which are covered with interesting bas-reliefs depicting the mythological figure of the Quetzal butterfly as well as symbols of birds and water. The reliefs were originally painted and inlaid with layers of obsidian which have been partially preserved. Equally remarkable are the heavily stylised figures painted on a red background and the roof edges decorated with symbols connected with the different parts of the year.
Palace of the Jaguars
The Palace of the Jaguars (Palacio de los Jaguares) adjoins the Palace of the Quetzal Butterfly and has many remarkable early wall-paintings, which include depictions of predatory cats with human heads and jaguars blowing into shells. On a frieze symbols of the rain god and the year can still be made out.
Subestructura de los Caracoles Emplumados
A tunnel leads to part of what is probably the oldest building in Teotihuacán. Known as the Subestructura de los Caracoles Emplumados (Substructure of the Feathered Snails), it lies hidden away beneath the Palace of the Quetzal Butterfly. The largest of the remaining facades, which once belonged to a temple, is decorated with superb reliefs. Snails decorated with colourful feathers (musical instruments?), green birds (parrots?) and four-leaved flowers are all visible.
Moon Pyramid
At the north end of the square stands the imposing Pirámide de la Luna (Moon Pyramid). Its front-facing side is made up of a five-storey pyramidal building in the talud-tablero style. The wide flight of steps leads to the actual pyramid itself, which consists of four staggered storeys. The ground area measures 140 3 150 m (460 3 490 ft), while the height reaches 46 m (151 ft). Although 17 m (56 ft) lower than the Sun Pyramid, its summit is on the same level thanks to the higher terrain. The steps merely lead up to the third level. From the summit of the Moon Pyramid there is also a fine view across the whole of the site.During the dry season a son et lumière performance takes place six times a week.
| Highlights: |
|---|
More Teotihuacan Pictures
