70km/43mi from Tepic along the MEX 15 in the direction of Guadalajara, the road passes through some strange countryside covered by lava from the volcano Ceboruco and shortly afterwards the little town of Ixtlán del Río is reached (Náhuatl: "obsidian place"; 1024 m (3360 ft); population 40,000; fiestas: last Sunday in October, Día de Cristo Rey
and December 8th-12th, Virgen de Guadalupe). 3km/2mi beyond the town on the left-hand side is one of the few archaeological sites in western Mexico not consisting entirely of burial grounds, the "Centro Ceremonial Rincón de Ixtlán y Los Toriles".
This area, which has been partially excavated, must have been inhabited as long ago as the 6th and 7th c. The buildings visible today probably date from the Early post-Classic period (ad 900-1250), when the influence of the Toltecs was unquestionably felt here. The most interesting of the buildings include an L-shaped building on a low platform and a round building with conical windows and two altar platforms which were probably consecrated to Quetzalcóatl in his capacity as wind god. Nearby can be seen dwelling-places, platforms, altars and buildings still waiting to be uncovered.