London - Southwark Cathedral

A "monasterium" stood here in the reign of King Edward the Confessor who died in 1065, but no record of the foundation survives. In the ninth century the nunnery became a house of Augustinian canons. A large Norman church, of which some remains are still visible, was built in 1106 by Gifford, Bishop of Winchester, and after this was destroyed by fire it was rebuilt in Gothic style in 1207 under Bishop Peter des Roches. It was a house for Augustinian canons until the Reformation. From the 13th century date the lower part of the 55m/165ft high tower (the tower itself is 15th century), the crossing, the choir and the ambulatory. The nave, added later in the 13th century, was rebuilt in 1469 and after a partial collapse in 1838 was re-erected by Sir Arthur Blomfield in preparation for the church's new role as a cathedral (1905). Since that date this has remained a parish church, but has also been the center of a diocese which covers South London and a third of Surrey. The Cathedral is entered by the southwest door. To the left can be seen a length of 13th century arcading. In front of this is the monument to the victims of a disaster on the river in 1989. At the west end of the north aisle are a number of interesting carved wooden bosses from the 15th century roof. Among the subjects depicted are a pelican feeding her young on her own blood (a popular symbol of self-sacrifice); Judas Iscariot (wearing a kilt!) being devoured by the Devil.

Also in the north aisle is the 12th century Norman doorway which gave access to the cloister. Under the sixth window is the tomb of the poet John Gower (1330-1408), who enjoyed the patronage of Richard II and Henry IV. Under the head of the life-size effigy are depicted his three books - "Speculum Meditantis" (in French), "Vox Clamantis" (in Latin) and "Confession Amantis" (in English). In the crossing is a brass chandelier of 1680, richly ornamented and of imposing size. Four massive 13th century piers support the central tower.

The north transept, which preserves wall paintings of the Norman period, dates from the 13th century. It contains three interesting monuments: a monument to Joyce Austin (d. 1626) by Nicholas Stone; a monument to the quack doctor Lionel Lockyer (1672), whose wonder-working pills, made from sunbeams, earned him a great contemporary reputation; the Blisse monument, with a fine bust of Richard Blisse (d. 1703) under a canopy.

Also in the north transept is the Harvard Chapel, originally the Chapel of St John the Evangelist, which was given its present name in 1907 after its restoration by Harvard University. It commemorates John Harvard, baptized in this church in 1607, who emigrated to America and became the benefactor of the world-famous university which bears his name. The chapel is entered through two round-headed Norman arches (several times restored), and other Norman work can be seen to the left of the altar. Also to the left of the altar are the arms of Harvard University, presented to the cathedral by Harvard students; to the right are the arms of Emmanuel College, Cambridge, of which Harvard was a member.

An elegant pointed arch gives access to the choir ambulatory, which contains a number of interesting monuments: the Trehearne monument, which shows John Trehearne, "gentleman porter" to and favorite of James I, and his family, all in contemporary costume; the inscription quaintly records the king's regret that Death could not be persuaded to leave him his servant; the late 13th century effigy of a knight, finely carved in oak - one of the few such effigies surviving from that period; the tomb of Alderman Richard Humble, depicted with his two wives (early 17th century).

The choir and retrochoir are among the oldest Gothic work in London. The choir itself was built about 1273. On the north side of the sanctuary are the bishop's throne and stalls for the suffragan bishops. The high altar dates from 1520, but its columns are 13th century.

Behind the high altar is the 13th century retrochoir (restored on a number of occasions). On the north side is a 16th century oak chest, a masterpiece of inlaid work and expressive carving. At the east end of the retrochoir are four chapels: St Andrew's Chapel, St Christopher's Chapel, the Lady Chapel, and the Chapel of St Francis and St Elizabeth of Hungary. In the south ambulatory is the tomb of Bishop Lancelot Andrewes (1626), one of the team of translators who produced the Authorised Version of the Bible.

In the south transept (Gothic, c. 1310) are the arms and cardinal's hat of Henry Beaufort, Henry IV's half-brother and one of the most active and influential men of his day, whose niece, Joan Beaufort, was married to James I of Scotland in this church.

There is a monument to William Shakespeare, dating from 1912. His brother Edmund (d. 1607) and Lawrence Fletcher, who together with Shakespeare and Burbage rented the Blackfriars and the Globe Theatres, are buried in the church.