Igreja do Carmo, Lisbon

The Igreja do Carmo was destroyed by the earthquake and now houses the Archeological Museum. It is one of Lisbon's most unusual memorials. The ruins are immediately obvious from the Rossio and from the bridge leading from the Elevador do Carmo but appear less noticeable from the Largo do Carmo. One reason for this is the location of the church. It was built on a slope to the west of the Baixa so that, with the western main facade incorporating the entrance portal kept relatively low, the eastern part with the chancel had to be built even lower and is thus more striking.

Igreja do Carmo Map

Important Information:

Address: Largo do Carmo, Portugal

Opening hours: Apr 1 to Sep 30: 10am-6pm; Closed: Mon
Oct 1 to Mar 31: 10am-1pm, 2pm-5pm; Closed: Mon

Always closed on: New Year's Day (Jan 1), Anniversity of the Revolution - Portugal (Apr 25), May Day / Labor Day (May 1), National Day - Portugal (Jun 10), Assumption Day - Christian (Aug 15), Republic Day - Portugal (Oct 5), All Saints' Day - Christian (Nov 1), Feast of the Immaculate Conception (Dec 8), Independence Day - Portugal (Dec 1), Christmas - Christian (Dec 25), Good Friday - Christian, Corpus Christi - Christian

Entrance fee: FREE

Transit: Tram: 24.

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The construction of the church and the now closed former Carmelite monastery dates back to a vow taken by the Portuguese national hero, Nuno Álvares Pereira, before his troops could secure Portugal's independence against Castille in the battle of Aljubarrota in 1385 and thus the power of the first Avis king, Joao I. Nuno Alvares himself lived later as a member of the Order in the Carmelite monastery and died there in 1431.

The ruins are the remains of Lisbon's only church built in the almost pure Gothic style. Together with the Sé Patriarchal, it is one of the few relics of medieval building remaining in the Portuguese capital. The former church is entered through a lovely portal. The style of construction of the three aisled building is still apparent, the view of the high Gothic arches which now tower up uselessly, being particularly impressive. Only the chancel in the eastern section is still roofed and it is here in particular that the proportions of the former church are apparent. A Manueline window opposite the entrance dates originally from the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos in Belém. After the earthquake it was actually planned to rebuild the monastery church but this never happened. The ruins were temporarily completely overrun by ivy.

Igreja do Carmo Highlights

National Museum of Archaeology

The interior of the Igreja do Carmo was temporarily used for different purposes and finally turned into an archeological museum in the middle of the 19th C. In addition, summer concerts often take place in the church ruins.

The exhibits of the archeological museum are somewhat indiscriminate, but very effective in their suitable setting, both in the roofless part of the ruins and in the well maintained eastern chancel.

Archeological finds from Portugal, England, Switzerland and from Middle and South America have been assembled here. The founder of the monastery is called to mind by his original sword and by the wooden copy of a stone sculpture which was destroyed in the earthquake. A fourth C. Roman sarcophagus portraying the Muses as well as the tombs of Fernando I (14th C.) and of Maria of Austria (18th C.) with sculptures by Machado de Castro can be seen.

Part of a marble pillar dating from the time of the West Goths has also been retained. It was found during excavations in the Baixa.

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Largo do Carmo

A lavishly decorated, lovely fountain stands under trees right in the middle of the Largo do Carmo in front of the Igreja do Carmo ruins. The Chafariz do Carmo was built here in 1796 on the site of an earlier fountain. The area surrounding the fountain consists of a block decorated with four dolphins and is covered by a cupola borne on four pillars.

Guarda Nacional Republicana

The headquarters of the Guarda Nacional Republicana, a type of riot police, are now accommodated in the former Carmelite monastery next to the Igreja do Carmo.

On the day of the revolution of April 25, 1974, the former dictator and successor of Salazar, Marcelo Caetano, and some other politicians from his regime sought protection from the revolutionary troops in the building. When the GNR headquarters was violently threatened, the politicians gave themselves up: Caetano was taken to the airport and left the country. A tightly packed crowd followed the events on the otherwise very quiet Largo do Carmo.