Kathmandu - Tham Bahal

The Tham Bahal or Vikramashila Mahavihara is situated to the north of central Kathmandu in Thamel, once a separate community. Ahead on entering the monastery are three medieval chaityas, while on the grass beyond stand a stupa of recent date and a shrine to Sarasviti. Tham Bahal is one of the earliest Buddhist monasteries in Kathmandu. The Swayambhu Purana credits it with foundation in Nepalese prehistory at the time of the Kanakamuni Buddha. The first historical mention is by a Tibetan, Atisa, who refers to the founding of the bahal during a visit to Nepal in 1041.

One of the most popular legends of the many surrounding the bahal is recorded on a banner displayed every year at the Gunla Festival (together with a book in gold lettering and two wooden figures known as "the Aunties"). It tells of a merchant Simha Sartha Bahu who set off for Ceylon accompanied by five hundred men. There they encountered five hundred and one rakshasi (man-eaters) in the guise of exceptionally beautiful women. The unsuspecting travelers were soon ensnared, all that is except for Simha who was warned of the peril by the Bodhisattva Lokeshvar Avalokiteshvara. The Bodhisattva promised to provide a horse to carry him to safety across the sea. Simha and his five hundred companions mounted the horse, but all except Simha looked back and fell again into the sirens' trap and were eaten. Only Simha arrived safely home, still pursued by his rakshasi who was finally driven off with one of the Bodhisattva's spells. The grateful merchant erected a temple in honor of Avalokiteshvara and a small shrine to the rakshasi who followed him from Ceylon. The latter, known as the Jati Ajima, stands on the right of the bahal entrance, a splendid old gateway flanked by dharamsalas. The large shrine contains the image of Simha Sartha Bahu (or Guru Juju), which can be put on by a man and worn for the Cakan Dya procession through the town.

The bahal is in many respects traditional, open to the courtyard at ground level and with overhanging balconies on the first floor. The south side of the court represents something of a departure however, one entrance leading to the shrine, set further back, containing the bahal's principal symbol, and a second opening south into the garden-like Tun Chowk, so-called on account of its fountain from which all the water for rituals is drawn. There are also three stupas in the Chowk, one of which, comprising four large Buddha figures, probably dates from the 10th or 11th c.

North of the Tham Bahal lies another monastery courtyard around which only the buildings on the east and north sides remain. Four times a year the three-storied temple is the temporary abode of the Kwa Bahal Kumari. Accompanied by musicians and the senior Vajracarya of the Kwa Bahal, the living goddess is brought here for two pujas, during the Dasain Festival and on the day after full moon in the holy month of Gunla. There is another small court south of this bahal, with a stupa in the center.