Kathmandu - Surroundings

Nagarjun Nagarjun, the mountain rising beyond Balaju park, is named after the Buddhist saint Nagarjuna, an Indian sage said to have meditated and died here in a cave. Devotees worship an image of the saint in a shrine set up in the cave on the east side of the upper section of the mountain. According to tradition Buddha left his wisdom to be guarded by the Naga until such time as humanity was ready to receive it. Centuries later the Naga passed the teachings on to Nagarjuna. The Prajnaparamita ("Perfection of Wisdom"), sixteen volumes of texts printed in gold script on lapis lazuli paper, is now in the Tham Bahal in Kathmandu.

The Newaris call the peak Jamacho, a reference to the long jamma skirts traditionally worn by Nepalese dancers (the mountain's forested ridges are thought to resemble a jamma's pleats). The forest, once a favorite hunting preserve of the Ranas, is now the Rani Ban ("Forest of the Kings") Reserve. Peacocks, deer, wild pigs and some leopards inhabit the rhododendron, bamboo, oak and pine-covered slopes. The ridge and summit of Jamacho afford spectacular views of the High Himalayas from Annapurna to Sikkim.

Water Gardens The park, laid out in the mid 17th c. by Pratapa Malla as a pleasance for the queen, has a wildlife preserve with red deer and a rich variety of birds. It also boasts one of the only two swimming pools in the Kathmandu Valley. The Water Gardens take their name from the Baais Dhara Balaju, a spring-fed tank into which water pours from twenty-two makara-shaped gargoyles (makara 5 crocodile). As well as being used for washing clothes and daily ablutions, the spring serves various ritual purposes. Pilgrims make their way here in large numbers, particularly for the festival of Balaju Jatra at the time of the full moon in April, on which day the water is said to come from the Trisuli.

The most notable feature of the Water Gardens is the figure of the Sleeping Vishnu, Bala Nilkantha. A second, smaller figure, also of Budha Nilkantha, was long thought to be a 17th c. replica. Historians are now agreed that it too dates from the 7th c.

In front of the Sleeping Vishnu stands a two-storied pagoda, built in the 19th c. and dedicated to Sitala, Goddess of Leaves. In addition to the multi-limbed figure of Sitala (14th c.), numerous other Hindu and Buddhist deities can be seen. They include an interesting 16th c. sculpture of Harihara combining the attributes of two gods: Vishnu's wheel and Shiva's trident.

Thecho The village of Thecho, a kilometer or two from Chapagaon, boasts two 17th c. temples. The two-storied Brahmayani Temple, and the larger, three-storied and gaily painted Bal Kumari Temple, are both rectangular in plan. Thecho is known for its Newari dance troupe, acknowledged to be the best in the Valley. People gather from all around to watch the spectacular performances, admiring the perfection of the dancing and the resplendent costumes.

The Yomarhi Puni Festival, held on the day before full moon in December, marks the conclusion of the harvest. Newari farmers celebrate by feasting and dancing the afternoon away.

Vajra Varahi Mandir Vajra Varahi Mandir is situated among trees about 500 m (1650 ft) east of the main road. It is said that children who are backward at learning to speak should be brought here and left alone in the wood, when they would be sure to learn to speak, or at least to scream. The two-storied temple, part of a complex of buildings, was erected in 1665. The goddess with the bearskin is revered as the guardian of life, whose followers bring cows milk to pour over the large stone bull in front of the temple. Sick cattle should then recover. On Saturdays animals are sacrificed to Vajra Varahi and the temple floor runs with blood. As well as offering a sacrifice to the goddess the day's outing for the family includes a picnic in the nearby wood.