Kathmandu - Pachali Bhairava Shrine

On the banks of the Bagmati a massive pipal tree with cavernous roots casts shade over the open Pachali Bhairava Shrine. Pachali Bhairava is one Shiva's most powerful and fearsome aspects.

Bhairava is said to have fallen in love with a girl of the khasai caste, turning himself into a handsome youth in order to win her hand. The smitten girl wanted to know who her lover was and whence he came. After much hesitation Bhairava prepared to reveal himself in his true colors, giving the girl grains of magic rice which she promised to throw over him to transform him back again. However when he appeared with his long mane and great fangs, she ran away in terror. He in turn hid in a cave beneath the pipal tree, sealing it with a rock, which some say is not a rock but a part of the god himself.

The large rock featuring in the legend is now the principal symbol of the shrine, although worship usually focuses on a small gilded figure. In front of the temple is a bronze statue of Bhairava's bearer and companion Baital. Lying naked on his back, features contorted in an ugly grin, he accepts blood sacrifices on behalf of the god which are usually brought on Tuesdays and Saturdays.