Kathmandu - Old City
For the sake of clarity the following account of the old city of Khatmandu is divided into two sections. Here the name "Old City" refers to the area around Durbar Square and north thereof.
Ancient Bazaar Street, cutting diagonally across the Upper City, creates delightful triangular open spaces, settings for colorful bustling markets and splendid temples.
Ancient Bazaar Street, cutting diagonally across the Upper City, creates delightful triangular open spaces, settings for colorful bustling markets and splendid temples.
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Leaving Durbar Square by its north-east corner the first such intersection is Indra Chowk, in which stands the Akash Bhairava Temple. A little further on a gateway off Kel Tole leads into the Jana Bahal, a monastery dedicated to Shveta Matsyendranath. Next comes Asan Tole, site of the vegetable market, over which Annapurna goddess of plenty presides from her extravagantly ornamented pagoda. Not far beyond Asan Tole, Bazaar Street reaches the boundary of the old Malla city. Here Pratapa Malla constructed the Rani Pokhari, a large water tank. Now changing direction follow the street bearing left from Asan Tole to Thahiti, a crossroads with a large stupa. On the way back from there to Durbar Square detours can be made to the Naradeva and Kankeshvari Temples.
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Annapurna Mandir
Amidst the busy fruit and vegetable stalls in Asan Square stands a little triple-roofed temple dedicated to Annapurna. As an aspect of Lakshmi, goddess of plenty, much attention is showered on her temple; it is in consequence exceptionally richly embellished. The goddess is represented by a silver kalasha (vase) in a Naga's embrace, a symbol of cornucopian abundance. The cult of Annapurna originated in Varanasi; the goddess was greatly revered by the Shahs and Ranas in the 19th and early 20th c.
Bhimsen Mandir
Dedicated to the patron deity of merchants, Bhimsen Mandir stands beside the old Tibetan trade route near the Vishnumati crossing to Tahachal. It has the rectangular plan traditional in Bhimsen and Bhairava temples, with the shrine occupying the first floor. On the ground floor there are shops. The temple was probably endowed at the time of Pratapa Malla who is known to have worshipped Bhimsen.
Musya Bahal
Near Thahiti are two Buddhist monasteries, the Musya Bahal and the Chusya Bahal, very similar in both appearance and plan.
Nateshwar Mandir
A legend claims that the 15th c. stupa in the center of Thahiti Square stands over a well from which pure gold flowed. The little Nateshwar Mandir is dedicated to the dancing Shiva; its embossed metal decoration depicts Shiva's musicians with a variety of instruments.
