Surroundings, Turin

10km/6mi northeast of Turin, reached on a road which follows the Po to the suburb of Sassi (218m/719ft) and then winds its way up to the top of the hill (or rack railroad from Sassi, 16 minutes), is the Basilica di Superga (672m/2,218ft), on the second highest hill in the Colli Torinesi. This large and conspicuous church, built on a centralized plan with a dome 75m/248ft high flanked by 60m/198ft high towers, the masterpiece of the great Baroque architect Juvarra, was erected in 1717-31 to commemorate Prince Eugene's victory in 1706 and served as the mausoleum of the royal house of Savoy from 1730 to 1849 (tombs in crypt). From the terrace in front of the church, in clear weather, there is a prospect of the Alps; from the forecourt there is a view of Turin.

An attractive excursion (10km/6mi) is to the Colle della Maddalena (715m/2,360ft), the highest of the Colli Torinesi, crowned by the Faro della Vittoria, a beacon in the form of a bronze statue (by E. Rubino, 1928) of the goddess of victory carrying a torch, 18.5m/61ft high on an 8m/9yd base; from the top there are fine panoramic views. From Turin via Sestriere to Montgenèvre (about 115km/71mi) Turin is a good base for some magnificent drives into the mountains. Particularly fine is the road to Sestriere and the Montgenèvre pass. Leave Turin by way of the Fiat works at Mirafiori and follow the S.S. 23.

Stupinigi (244m/805ft) is a magnificent Baroque castle (by Filippo Juvarra, 1729-33), set in a large park which now houses the Museo d'Arte e dell'Ammobigliamento.

Pinerolo (376m/1,241ft; pop. 36,000) is a beautifully situated town with an 11th century cathedral. In the church of San Maurizio is a burial vault of the house of Savoy. Beyond this stands the church of the Madonna delle Grazie, from which there is a fine view of Monviso (3,841m/12,675ft).

From Pinerolo a detour (15km/9mi southwest) can be made to the little town of Torre Pellice (516m/1,703ft), a popular summer resort prettily situated in the Pellice valley, a stronghold of the Waldensians, Protestants who fled from France during the Albigensian wars (1209-29) and sought refuge in the Piedmontese valleys on the east side of the Cottian Alps, where they were able to maintain themselves in spite of frequent persecution. There are now some 25,000 Waldensians, most of them still French-speaking, in the Pellice valley and the lower Chisone valley. Beyond Pinerolo the road to Montgenèvre ascends the Chisone valley, towards the main chain of the Cottian Alps.

Perosa Argentina (614m/2,026ft; pop. 5,000) is a little industrial town mainly populated by Waldensians. The road then traverses a gorge and before reaching Fenestrelle passes the large Agnelli Sanatorium, on a hill to the right (1,700m/5,610ft; road, 6.5km/4mi, and cableway).

Fenestrelle (1,154m/3,808ft) is a city with imposing fortifications extending up to the 18th century fort of San Carlo, linked by 4,000 steps.During the time of Julius Caesar it was already a fortified Roman outpost on the edge of the empire hence it's name is derived from "Finis Terre" as it bordered the land of King Cottie or Cotzi (Pro Roman Celtic ruler).The Fortezza di Fenestrelle is the largest fortress in Europe with Fort San Carlo at the bottom and Forte del Valle at the top connected by a covered staircase of 3996 steps.

Sestriere (2,033m/6,709ft) is on the saddle between the Chisone valley and the valley of the Dora Riparia. This is one of Europe's largest winter sports resorts, also popular in summer. Cableways to Monte Fraitève (2,690m/8,877ft) to the northwest, Monte Sises (2,658m/8,771ft; upper station 2,597m/8,570ft) to the southeast, Monte Banchetta (2,552m/8,421ft) to the east; chair-lift, many ski-lifts. Beyond Sestriere the road descends into the valley of the Dora Riparia.The first purpose-built resort in the Alps, Sestriere was put on the map when it hosted the World Alpine Championships in 1997. It is part of the Milky Way system which includes Sauze d'Oulx. High with northwest facing slopes, Sestriere draws mainly Italians, so much so that most English-speaking visitors tend to stay in Sauze d'Oulx, which draws a more international crowd and whose ski pass is also valid at Sestriere which has the most extensive and modern snowmaking equipment in Europe.This area offers some 400 kilometers of marked trails served by 97 lifts. The Sestriere runs are mainly above the treeline while the low-altitude skiing area at Sauze d'Oulx features trails through forested terrain.

Cesana Torinese (1,354m/4,468ft), where it joins the road from Turin via Susa. Chair-lift to Sagna Longa (2,002m/6,607ft) and Colle Bercia (Monti della Luna, 2,203m/7,270ft). Beyond Cesana the road continues to climb.

Claviere or Clavières (1,760m/5,808ft), a resort much favored by winter sports enthusiasts; chair-lift to La Cloche (1,960m/6,468ft). Soon after Claviere the road comes to the French frontier.

Col de Montgenèvre (1,854m/6,118ft; winter sports, chair-lifts to 2,600m/8,580ft), formerly an important Alpine pass providing the shortest route between the Po valley and southern France, used by Julius Caesar and in the Middle Ages by the Emperor Barbarossa among many others. Turin via Susa to the Montgenèvre pass (about 95km/59mi)

Leave Turin on S.S. 25, going west. In 13km/8mi the road comes to Rivoli (390m/1,287ft; pop. 5,000), an old-world town situated between morainic hills, once a favorite residence of the house of Savoy, with a Baroque palace (by Juvarra, 1712), of which only a third was completed (419m/1,383ft). Beyond Rivoli the road enters the Cottian Alps and ascends the Val di Susa, the valley of the Dora Riparia. At the mouth of the valley, on a hill to the left, is the Sacra di San Michele abbey (11th-13th centuries: alt. 962m/3,175ft).

Susa (503m/1,660ft; pop. 7,000) is an old town, beautifully situated between high mountains, which controlled the Montgenèvre and Mont Cenis roads. On the west side of the picturesque old town, on the right bank of the Dora, rises a marble triumphal arch (13.5m/44.5ft high) erected in 8 B.C. in honor of the Emperor Augustus by the prefect Cottius, after whom the Cottian Alps are named. Northeast of the arch stands the cathedral of San Giusto (11th-13th centuries), with a beautiful campanile. At Susa the road forks: Montgenèvre to the left, Mont Cenis straight ahead. The road to Mont Cenis (S.S. 25), constructed by Napoleon in 1803-10, runs uphill, with numerous curves and sharp bends.

Passo del Paradiso, which since 1947 has marked the French-Italian frontier. 4km/2.5mi to the left is the Lac du Mont Cenis, in a beautiful setting (1,913m/6,313ft).

Mont Cenis pass (Col du Mont Cenis, 2,084m/6,877ft), on the old French-Italian frontier. Beyond Susa the Montgenèvre road (S.S. 24) passes through a gorge formed by the Dora Riparia.

Exiles is a picturesque village dominated by a massive fortress (17th century); fine views.

Oulx (1,100m/3,630ft), 5km/3mi east of which is the winter sports resort of Sauze d'Oulx (1,510m/4,983ft; chair-lifts, including to Sportinia (2,170m/7,161ft), to the south.

14km/9mi northwest of Sauze d'Oulx is the village of Bardonecchia, a popular resort both in summer and winter (1,312m/4,330ft; pop. 3,000). It lies near the entrance to the Galleria del Freàjus, the first Alpine tunnel (1861-70), leading to the French town of Modane (Mont Cenis rail tunnel, 13.6km/8.5mi long; road tunnel 12.3km/7.5mi long). From Bardonecchia there are a number of chair-lifts, including one via Granges Hyppolites (1,520m/5,016ft: change lifts) up Colomion (2,054m/6,778ft).

11km/7 miles: Cesana Torinese, where the road from Turin via Sestriere comes in.

8km/ 5 miles: Montgenèvre pass (1854m/6118ft).

86km/53mi northeast of Turin, beautifully situated in the foothills of the Alps on the River Cervo, is the industrial town of Biella (420m/1,386ft; pop. 52,000). In the lower town are the cathedral (originally built 1402, rebuilt 1772, facade 1825), and adjoining an early Romanesque baptistery (ninth-10th centuries) and the Town Hall. In the southwest part of the lower town stands the beautiful Renaissance church of San Sebastiano (1604; facade 1882). To the west, above the lower town (funicular), is the picturesque upper town or Piazzo, from which there are fine views.

From Biella an interesting excursion on S.S. 144 (13km/8mi), goes north, with beautiful views, past the little spa of Oropa Bagni (1,060m/3,498ft) to the magnificent Santuario della Madonna d'Oropa (1,180m/3,894ft), the most popular place of pilgrimage in Piedmont, said to have been founded by St Eusebius in 369. From here a cableway runs up to the Rifugio Mucrone (1,820m/6,006ft), near the Lago di Mucrone, and then to Monte Mucrone (2,335m/7,706ft; cableway, station 2,189m/7,224ft). From the Rifugio Mucrone there is another cableway up Monte Camino (2,391m/7,890ft; mountain hut); from which there are superb views, including Monte Rosa and the Matterhorn.

Alba (34km/21 mi; alt. 172m/568ft; pop. 31,000), has a Gothic cathedral (beautiful choir-stalls of 1512), fine churches and medieval towers. The road through the Monferrato then continues through the vine-growing Langhe region, where the much sought-after white truffles are harvested in autumn, and down the valley of the Bormida, on the edge of the Ligurian Apennines, to Savona, on the Riviera dei Fiori. Turin via Acqui Terme to Genoa (about 185km/115 mi) Another interesting drive leads from Turin via Acqui Terme to Genoa. Leave on S.S. 29 (the Alessandria road), which runs through Poirino (249m/822ft).

56km/35 miles: Asti.

Piano d'Isola (130m/429ft). The road now leaves the Tanaro valley and traverses a densely populated upland region (vine-growing).

Nizza Monferrato (138m/455ft; pop. 10,000) is a little vine-growing town on the River Belbo. The road runs over a hill and enters the wide valley of the Bormida.

Acqui Terme (164m/541ft; pop. 22,000) is a spa on the left bank of the Bormida, with a cathedral consecrated in 1067, and the church of San Pietro (c. 1015). The mineral springs, containing salt and sulfur, are recommended for the treatment of rheumatic conditions. The hottest spring (La Bollente, 75°C/167° F) is in the Nuove Terme, in the town. From here the Corso Bagni leads over the river (beyond the bridge, on the right, remains of an ancient aqueduct) and past a large thermal swimming pool (6,500 sq.m) to the Antiche Terme.Beyond Acqui the road continues for a short distance along the Bormida valley and then climbs into the Ligurian Apennines, goes over a hill and descends into the Orba valley.

24km/15 miles: Ovada (186m/614ft), at the junction of the Stura and the Orba.

Campo Ligure (342m/1,129ft; pop. 4,000), a picturesquely situated little town and summer resort with a tower which belonged to a 13th century castle. There is an interesting museum with local filigree work.

Passo del Turchino (532m/1,756ft: short tunnel), from which the road runs down into the pleasant valley of the Leiro.

28km/17 miles: Genoa.