On S.S. 155 (Via Prenistina), which also leads from Rome to Frosinone north of S.S. 6, we reach in 40km/25mi Palestrina (450m/1,485ft; pop. 14,000), the ancient Praeneste and one of the oldest towns in Italy, birthplace of the greatest Italian composer of church music, Giovanni Pierluigi da Palestrina (1525-94; tomb in St Peter's, Rome). In 1630
the town fell into the hands of the noble Barberini family. Almost the whole area of the present-day town was occupied by the massive temple of Fortuna Primigenia, the seat of a frequently consulted oracle, which was built on four terraces on the slope on the hill, and of which there are considerable remains. On the second terrace, by the cathedral, are the well-preserved remains of the Antro delle Sorti ("Cave of Destiny") and the Aula dell'Oracolo, home of the oracle. On the fourth terrace, above the massive arches of the third, stands the Palazzo Barberini (15th and 17th century; Archeological Museum), on the site of the shrine of Fortuna, with magnificent views extending as far as Rome.