In the fertile Crati valley in northwest Calabria lies Cosenza (240m/792ft; pop. 107,000), once capital of the Bruttii (Cosentia), now a provincial capital and the see of an archbishop. The Visigothic leader Alaric died in Cosentia in A.D. 410 and was buried with his treasure in the bed of the River Busento. To the northwest - on the slopes of
the castle hill - lies the handsome new town; the old town with its narrow winding streets is built on the tongue of land within the confluence of the Crati and the Busento. In the winding main street, Corso Telesio, is the early Gothic cathedral (consecrated 1222), in which the unhappy Hohenstaufen king Henry VII was buried in 1242; in the north transept is the tomb of Isabella, wife of Philip III of France, who died in Cosenza in 1271. From the municipal gardens on the south side of the old town the road climbs northwest to the Castello (385m/1,271ft; view), with walls 3m/10ft thick which nevertheless were not strong enough to withstand the frequent earthquakes (particularly severe in 1783 and 1905).
The flea market, Via Lungo Crati De Seta opens everyday.