The little medieval town of Castelnuovo (227m/745ft; population 8,000) lies in the heart of the Garfagnana as this stretch of the fertile valley of the Serchio, flanked by the Apuan Alps to the west and Apennines to the east, is known. Historically Castelnuovo always had closer ties with Modena and Ferrara, i.e. with the house of Este, than with
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