Amlapura
District: Karangasem
By road: Denpasar to Sakah; then bear right for Blahbatuh and Klungkung; from there along the coast, via Candi Dasa.
Bus: several times daily from Denpasar-Kereneng.
Bemo: good services along the road.
Amlapura (formerly called Karangasem), the administrative
center of Karangasem district, is the most easterly town on Bali, situated at the foot of the Gunung Agung volcano. It is some 80 km (50 mi.) from Denpasar.
History Amlapura, known as Karangasem until 1964, played an important part during the years when the Dutch were attempting to gain a foothold on Bali. While the rulers of the princedoms of central Bali were for the most part preparing to resist the threatened occupation, the Rajas of Karangasem reached an accommodation with the occupying forces and thus left the eastern part of the island exposed. The Dutch were then able to sail round the south coast to Sanur and attack the princes of Gianyar and Badung, who were still holding out against them, near their capitals. The Dutch were duly grateful: Karangasem became one of the wealthiest towns on Bali and the Raja retained his power.
Amlapura was devastated by the eruption of Gunung Agung on March 17th 1963 - not so much by the flows of lava, which did not reach the town, as by the earthquakes accompanying the eruption, which destroyed almost every building in the town. For some years Amlapura also suffered from the destruction of almost all the main roads linking it with the rest of the island, and it is only since the late seventies that it has again been served by good roads. Since then the town has taken on a fresh lease of life and developed into a modest district center.
The scars left by the 1963 eruption can still be seen. A walk about the town will reveal the ruins of houses which have been wholly or partly destroyed and are only gradually being replaced by new building.
Scenery Between Candi Dasa and Amlapura the road runs through a hilly tropical landscape of extraordinary charm. The area round Amlapura is intensively cultivated, with great expanses of terraced rice-fields.