Yosemite National Park
|
|
Location and generalYosemite National Park (pronounced "yossémmitty") was founded in 1890, and extends over 1,190sq.miles/3,082sq.km in the center of eastern California. It covers a section of the Sierra Nevada rich in forests and lakes, the scenic highlight of which is the Yosemite Valley, measuring some 8mi/13km long and some 0.5-2mi/1-3km wide.
Swollen by melting snows in spring, numerous waterfalls cascade down the almost vertical granite walls of the Merced River Valley (known to the Spanish as El Rio de Nuestra Se¤ora de la Merced). These walls rise to between 3,000 and 5,000ft/900 and 1,500m.Flora and faunaThe almost flat valley bottom (at 4,000ft/1,200m above sea-level) is covered in lush flower-strewn meadows, thick bushes and dense clumps of trees. The vastly different levels to be found in the park (between 130 and 1,300ft/400 and 4,000m) produce ideal living conditions for a wide range of animals and plants. Thus wild deer, black bear, coyotes, badgers and numerous rodents roam the lower regions, while marmots frequent the inhospitable mountain heights.Several clumps of mighty redwoods (sequoia gigantea) are also one of the special sights to be seen in Yosemite National Park.HistoryOriginThe Yosemite Valley was formed over millions of years. Originally there was a wide valley here with a river which in time hollowed out a canyon up to 2,100ft/650m deep. During the Ice Age the canyon became filled right to the top with ice and possibly glaciers. The ice widened the canyon at its weakest points and hollowed out the U-shaped Yosemite Valley. The last glacier filled it to a depth of only about one-third, leaving a moraine of ice behind. Behind this moraine the melting ice formed a lake, which slowly filled with deposits, thus forming the plains in the valley on which meadows and forests are found today.DevelopmentThe first men must have come to the Yosemite Valley 8,000 to 10,000 years ago, and Miwok Indians (Ahwahnee) lived there for more than 4,500 years before the Europeans came. In the middle of the 19th century, when the gold-rush and its accompanying army of adventurers descended upon California and the villages and hunting-grounds of the Indian aborigines, the latter often carried out bloody reprisal attacks on the white man's mining towns and trading posts. Whilst on a punitive expedition against the Indians on March 25th 1851 the Mariposa Battalion became the first white men to enter the valley. They gave it the Indian name of "U-zu-mate", the name of the grisly bear native to these forests.The reports made by the Mariposa soldiers quickly aroused public interest in this special and beautiful part of the country and the first visitors were attracted there as early as 1851. In 1864, during the Civil War, President Lincoln signed the Yosemite Transfer of Ownership, which ceded the Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa Grove to California, on condition that it was preserved in its state of natural beauty.The Scottish naturalist John Muir, who came to the Yosemite Valley four years later, became the chief advocate of the National Park concept. Yellowstone National Park was the first to be created in 1872. It was followed by Yosemite in 1890. California then returned the area to the Federal Government, and with the passage of time it grew to its present size.Recent historyThe first cavalrymen entered the valley along Indian trails; ten years later the first roads were laid and in 1900 the first car came in along the Wawona Road, although cars were not officially allowed until 1913. In 1907 the railway line from San Francisco to El Portal was built along the western boundary of the park, and this remained in use until 1945. The all-weather road from Merced was completed in 1926. That was when tourists began to flood into Yosemite National Park; now some 2.5 million people visit it every year. In 1984 Yosemite National Park received very special recognition from the United Nations who added it to the list of World Heritage Sites, which includes the natural and made-made Wonders of the World.
Official site:
www.nps.gov/yose/
Address:
Box 577, Yosemite, CA 95389-0577, United States
Entrance fee in USD:
$10.00, Vehicle plus all occupants $20.00
Useful tips: Admission is good for 7 days.
Visitors may experience traffic delays or periods of restricted access on Highway 140 inside the park due to road construction. See the El Portal Road Access Schedule for details.
Yosemite National Park Highlights
Yosemite Valley
Yosemite Valley is located at the center of Yosemite National Park. The valley is a depression carved by glaciers during the last ice age. Granite domes and many powerful waterfalls attract thousands each year along with the desire to try some of the best hiking spots in the park. Upper Yosemite drops 1,430 feet at one point (equaling nine Niagaras). The falls are at their fullest in May and June when winter snows are melting.
Cathedral Spires (Bridal Veil Fall)
West of Sentinel Rock in Yosemite National Park you will come to the two slender Cathedral Spires (5,900ft/1,800m and 6,120ft/1,865m high), side by side with the imposing twinned Cathedral Rocks (6,630ft/2,021m) opposite the Capitán. Bridal Veil Fall (50-70ft/15-20m wide), cascades down for some 620ft/189m on the lower western slopes of these rocks. It is so called because, when the wind is blowing, the waters take on the appearance of a bridal veil. The Ahwahneechee Indians native to the Yosemite Valley named it Pohono, meaning roughly "spirit that blows the air". The wind blows round the waterfall, sometimes making it move sideways. In the summer months, however, it dries up completely.
Yosemite Falls
Yosemite Falls are east of Eagle Peak, roughly in the middle of the valley. They are in three parts, with a total overall height of 2,425ft/739m: the Upper Fall, some 30ft/10m wide, plunges down 450ft/136m almost vertically; the Middle Cascade consists of a number of small cascades (totaling 680ft/206m, and the Lower Fall is 320ft/98m high. Yosemite Falls are among the highest in the world and in spring provide the most awe-inspiring sight in the National Park, but they disappear in summer and autumn. In winter a magnificent ice peak, up to 300ft/90m in height, forms on the Upper Fall.
Sentinel Dome and Rock
Eagle Peak
East of El Capitán rise the triple peaks of the Three Brothers, the highest of which, Eagle Peak (7,780ft/2,371m), provides a superb view of the valley and Yosemite Falls.
Vernal Fall (Nevada Fall)
Ribbon Fall
Immediately to the west of El Capitán lies the 1,612ft/491m high Ribbon Fall in Ribbon Creek.
Royal Arches and Lost Arrow
East of the Upper Fall, on the end face of the Upper Yosemite Fall Cliff, stands a granite needle known as Lost Arrow. Still further east lies Indian Canyon, the soft stone of which shows more marked signs of erosion than that in the Yosemite valley. The rock-wall on the opposite side of the canyon gets its name of Royal Arches from its semi-circular hollows. On the west side will be found the Royal Arches Cascade, a waterfall about 1,000ft/ 300m high, which is normally almost dry but which swells considerably in spring and after heavy rain.
North Dome
East of the Royal Arches, where the valley joins Tenaya Canyon, Washington Column towers above the valley floor. It is a granite tower measuring 1,930ft/585m, dwarfed however by the barren North Dome (7,545ft/2,299m).
El Capitan
Coming from Merced your first impressive view of Yosemite Valley is from Valley View Point at the western entrance to the valley. One of the most magnificent and arresting sights is that of the rock massif known as El Capitán (7,572ft/2,307m), dominating in bold relief the northwest corner of the valley. The impression made by this mighty monolith comes mainly from its dominant position, its majestic shape and its precipitous walls rising 300ft/100m above the floor of the valley. Its two end walls facing west and south meet almost at right angles; it is an arduous climb to the top.
Glacier Point
At the southeast corner of the Yosemite Valley where it joins the Merced Canyon the rocky peak known as Glacier Point (7,217ft/2,199m) reaches towards the sky. This is without doubt the loveliest and most popular spot hereabouts from which to look down over the Yosemite Valley into the Merced Canyon with its waterfalls, and across the High Sierra.
Half Dome
Opposite the North Dome, and forming the east end of the Yosemite Valley, towers the Half Dome (8,850ft/2,695m) which, as the name suggests, is shaped like a vertically-halved dome. So far it has not been established whether it ever had the other half. It can be climbed from the far side (but only in the warm months of the year) the last stretch to the summit being by cable-car.
Mariposa Grove
The Mariposa Grove in Yosemite National Park is located in the southern part of the park and features the largest stand of giant sequoias in the park.
Yosemite Lodge and Curry Village
A wide range of events and functions awaits the visitor of Yosemite during the summer months. You should consult the park newspaper "Yosemite Guide" which appears weekly. In addition to the numerous ranger programs (lectures, etc.) and campfire talks, there are geology walks (guided tours with geological explanations), ecology float trips (accompanied trips floating down the Merced River with ecological commentaries) and mountaineering, riding and cycling tours (cassette recordings of tours available).AccommodationFor anyone visiting the Yosemite National Park in the high season, in spring and early autumn, and wishing to stay overnight it is essential to book accommodation in advance. For the hotels and motels inside the park there is a center which will take advance bookings for the Ahwahnee and Wawona Hotels as well as for Yosemite Lodge and Curry Village. If you have to spend the night outside the park you will have the long journey into the park each day.You can reach the Yosemite Waterfall in a few minutes if you get off the No. 7 bus at Yosemite Lodge.In 1899 David and Jenny Curry opened a tented camp so that visitors could enjoy the beauty of Yosemite for a modest price. They advertised "a good bed and clean napkin with every meal" for just $2 a day. Camp Curry still offers inexpensive lodging in the shadow of the spectacular Glacier Point and Half Dome.Yosemite Lodge is located where Fort Yosemite once housed the U. S. Army Cavalry while it protected and managed Yosemite National Park. Built in 1915 to accommodate the expected increase in park visitors as a result of San Francisco's Pan-Pacific Exposition.
Mirror Lake
At its east end the Yosemite Valley forks into two narrow valleys, Tenaya Creek (northeast) and Merced River (southeast). Between the square blocks of rock at the foot of the right-hand wall of the Tenaya Creek Canyon can be found the Indian Caves, where Indians once lived. About 1mi/2km upstream the reflection of the North Dome plays on the clear waters of the beautiful Mirror Lake. The best time to see this is during the still hours of morning and evening when the wind has dropped. Tenaya Creek brings great masses of gravel and mud into the lake, so there is a real threat that it may silt up. It dries up almost completely in late summer and does not fill up again until after the autumn storms. There is a 3mi/5km path leading round the lake.
Yosemite Village
The focus of tourism in the valley is Yosemite Village below the main falls. Here you will find the ranger's office, visitors' center, museum, information centers, accommodation, post-office, shops, riding stables and so forth. In a building west of the Visitor Center is an Indian Cultural Museum with a rich collection depicting Indian cultural history.
Surroundings
The surroundings of Yosemite National Park include the towns of Lee Vining and Fish Camp.
Yosemite Mountain-Sugar Pine Railroad, Fish Camp
The Yosemite Mountain-Sugar Pine Railroad in Fish Camp is a four mile narrow gauge with a steam engine. The train runs from March through October.
Yosemite Pioneer History Center
The Yosemite Pioneer History Center at Wawona has historic cabins and exhibits about the stagecoach days of Yosemite. Demonstrations are offered. Visitors can explore Yosemite's history in the blacksmith shop, bakery, Wells Fargo bank, jail and covered bridge.
Hetch Hetchy Reservoir
Tioga Pass Road
The first 12 miles of Tioga Pass Road include a two-lane paved road that ascends for nearly a mile and overlooks a vast canyon. The road traverses Tuolumne Meadows and descends to Tenaya Lake then continues to a junction with Big Oak Flat Road.
Tuolumne Meadows
Wawona Basin
The Wawona Basin offers a recreation area for camping, riding, golf, swimming and tennis. A beautiful meadow lies 27 miles south of the Yosemite Valley near Mariposa Grove. Saddle and pack animals are available in summer.
Yosemite High Sierra Camps
The Yosemite High Sierra Camps are located in the wilderness and can only be reached by foot or by saddle. The camps are located along a loop trail in Yosemite's High Country.
Tuolumne Grove
The Tuolumne Grove contains 20 giant sequoia trees including the Dead Giant stump. A self-guided trail is available to visitors.
Washburn and Merced Lakes
The lakes are reached only by trail from Yosemite Valley, bordering the western slopes of the Sierra.
More Yosemite National Park Pictures
Map - Yosemite National Park
More California Resources
- Yosemite day tours by Viator