In most people's minds, mention of Dartmoor conjures up images of wild ponies, the notorious prison at Princetown, and Sir Arthur Conan Doyle's "The Hound of the Baskervilles". It covers by far the greater part of southwest Devon, an area rich in legend and redolent with history, where the barren hills with their granite outcrops (tors) display a rugged grandeur. The desolate wastes of moor and heathland average some 90in/2,286mm of rainfall a year, considerably more than most other parts of England.
In 1949, 365sq.mi/945sq.km of the former royal hunting preserve were designated a national park, extending from Okehampton in the north to Ivybridge in the south, and from Bovey Tracey in the east to Tavistock in the west. The highest
points are "High Willhays" (2,038ft/622m) and "Yes Tor" (2,021ft/616m) near Okehampton. In addition to the vast moorland, the special charm of the scenery lies in its delightful valleys and numerous little rivers and streams, including the East and West Dart from which Dartmoor takes its name.
The brooding relics of prehistory, ruins of abandoned mine workings from the early industrial era, and, above all, the impenetrable character of the moor itself, frequently blanketed in mist, have combined to give Dartmoor its rather sinister reputation and made it the subject of a host of legends and eerie ghost stories.
There are only two major roads across Dartmoor - one from Tavistock to Ashburton, the other from Yelverton by way of Princetown and Two Bridges (where it crosses the first road) to Moretonhampstead.
One of Dartmoor's principal features are its "tors", the granite outcrops, often eroded into bizarre shapes, which jut up from the moorland. These were the source of many of the stones used in prehistoric times to make the chamber tombs, cairns and stone circles which are so numerous on Dartmoor. The true origin of some of these ancient structures is in fact unknown, several previously believed to be prehistoric having been shown to be more recent. There is similar uncertainty about the age of some of the "clapper bridges", thought at one time to date from the Bronze Age (the word "clapper" derives from the Saxon word "cleaca" meaning "big stone"). The bridges consist of granite slabs spanning the river in a series of rectilinear arches.
Dartmoor's many prehistoric sites rank high among its attractions. One of the best preserved Bronze Age settlements can be seen at Grimspound near Manaton, where 24 circular huts are enclosed by a 10ft/3m-wide wall. Remains of another early village have been discovered at Great Tor. At Merrivale, near Princetown, are a menhir and several stone circles and alignments. Green Hill Row, 7mi/4.5km northwest of South Brent, is probably the longest series of burials, with more than 70 stones.
Although allowed to run free throughout the year on the open moorland, the shaggy coated Dartmoor ponies actually belong to various farms. The earliest known reference to these small moorland horses is by Aelfwold, Saxon Bishop of Crediton, in 1012. For centuries, until replaced by motor vehicles at the end of the 19th century, they were used as beasts of burden, carrying not only wool and granite but also lead, tin and copper from the Dartmoor mines. At one time they were somewhat larger, cross breeding with e.g. Shetlands, thoroughbreds and hackneys having resulted in the smaller, hardy strain of mostly brown, black and gray pony. The ponies should not be fed.
A number of footpaths cross the National Park. It goes without saying that lighting fires is forbidden and all rubbish must be removed. Those intending to walk on the moors should heed the advice issued by the National Park authorities as regards carrying detailed maps and a compass, keeping strictly to the signposted routes and taking adequate clothing etc.; anyone unfamiliar with the area can easily become lost. It should be remembered also that the weather can change very quickly. Car drivers must expect to encounter sheep and ponies on the road.
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