Yaxchilán 
How to get there
By light plane from Tuxtla Gutiérrez, San Cristóbal de las Casas, Palenque or Tenosique; also by light plane to Agua Azul on the Río Usumacinta and from there by boat along the river to Yaxchilán. Alternatively it is possible to drive - preferably in a cross-country vehicle - from Palenque to the border town of Frontera Echeverria, and then continue by boat from there 20km/14mi upriver to Yaxchilán.
The great Maya site of Yaxchilán in the east of the state of Chiapas is almost completely surrounded by a loop in the Río Usumacinta, which forms the border with Guatemala and is 200 m (657 ft) wide.
By light plane from Tuxtla Gutiérrez, San Cristóbal de las Casas, Palenque or Tenosique; also by light plane to Agua Azul on the Río Usumacinta and from there by boat along the river to Yaxchilán. Alternatively it is possible to drive - preferably in a cross-country vehicle - from Palenque to the border town of Frontera Echeverria, and then continue by boat from there 20km/14mi upriver to Yaxchilán.
The great Maya site of Yaxchilán in the east of the state of Chiapas is almost completely surrounded by a loop in the Río Usumacinta, which forms the border with Guatemala and is 200 m (657 ft) wide.
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Must-see attractions nearby:
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The excavation site is barely visible from the river because it is for the most part covered by the thick vegetation of the rain forest. The town, which extends along the river for a distance of almost 1.5km/1mi and also inland across a number of high terraced hills, is among the most fascinating archaeological sites in Mexico.
History
During the Maya Classic period (ad 300-900), Yachilán was, together with Palenque (Chiapas), Piedras Negras 60km/37mi downstream, Tikal and Quirigua (all in Guatemala) and Copán (Honduras), one of the great religious and political centres of the central lowland area of the Maya empire. At the time of its greatest flowering in the 8th c., Yaxchilán seems, as far as can be gathered from glyphs which have been deciphered, to have ruled a number of other places in the surrounding area, e.g. Bonampak. Recently it has been possible to decipher glyphs which outline the chronicle of a dynasty, the legendary founder of which, "Jaguar penis" (Yat Balam), is thought to have ruled in ad 320. Some 130 monuments have been dated between ad 514 (stela 27) and ad 808 (lintel 10), three-quarters of which fall within the reigns of "Shield Jaguar" (ad 647-742, from 681 regent) and "Bird Jaguar II" (ad 709-771?, from 752 regent). Then follows "Shield Jaguar II" (ad 752-806?, from 771 regent). In common with all other sites in the Maya central region, Yaxchilán was abandoned, for reasons unknown, in the 9th c. ad. Until a few years ago nomadic Lacandon Indians still celebrated their ancient rites in the ruins of the temple palaces here.
Edwin Rockstroh was the first person to reach Yaxchilán from Guatemala in 1881; however, it was left to the Englishman Alfred P. Maudslay to discover the site for science one year later. He named the place Menché (Maya: "green tree"). With the approval of the Guatemalan government, which at that time was considered responsible for this area, Maudslay had seven door-lintels removed and these are now on display in the British Museum in London. Soon afterwards the Frenchman Désiré Charnay arrived, but it was the Austrian Teobert Maler, who worked here between 1897 and 1900, who gave the site its present name of Yaxchilán (Maya: "place of the green stones") which he took from the nearby river of the same name. At the beginning of the 20th c. the American archaeologists A.M. Tozzer, S.G. Morley and H. Spinden carried out scientific work here, while in the last few years valuable restoration work has been undertaken by the Mexican I.N.A.H. under the direction of Roberto García Moll.
The Ruins
Before visiting the site it is essential to consult the local tourist offices in order to ascertain conditions at the site and its accessibility. It is advisable to engage the services of a knowledgeable guide on the spot and to take appropriate equipment.
Overview
Only a very small proportion of the buildings, which are scattered along the Río Usumacinta and on the surrounding hills, have been excavated and restored. Most are still overgrown or, having been cleared, are now the property of the jungle again, so that access is very difficult. The groups of buildings are set out stepwise in four rows which stretch out from the river bank over the hilly ground to the west. The buildings display no particular architectural features; there are fewer pyramid temples than palaces, most of which have three entrances and two parallel passages. The upper parts of the faáades and the protruding roof-crests (cresterías) were once decorated with stucco and stone figures. As with the large Maya site of Palenque the roofs exhibit the so-called "mansard effect", with the roof combs rising in the middle.
Of great significance in Yaxchilán are the unique elaborate yet powerfully crafted reliefs which were carved into the stelae, altars, door-lintels and steps. So far, inscriptions have been found on no fewer than 125 of these stone panels. Their dates range from ad 454 to 807. The reliefs often show two figures, which apparently symbolise a change of power. The greater, more important personage has his face in profile, while his body and legs are represented frontally and his feet turned outwards. The second, considerably smaller figure is represented completely in profile. Other pictures in stone show prisoners, battle scenes, consecrational and sacrificial rites. Among the latter there is a preponderance of pictures of rulers and their consorts with barbed cords cutting through their tongues and genitalia. In the last few years the research work carried out by H. Berlin and T. Proskouriakoff has succeeded in partially deciphering the glyphs and thereby confirming the long-held suspicion that, in this unique way, historical events and personalities are being immortalised.
Quite a number of the stelae and altars are damaged or, together with many of the reliefs, have been transferred to the National Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City or abroad.
History
During the Maya Classic period (ad 300-900), Yachilán was, together with Palenque (Chiapas), Piedras Negras 60km/37mi downstream, Tikal and Quirigua (all in Guatemala) and Copán (Honduras), one of the great religious and political centres of the central lowland area of the Maya empire. At the time of its greatest flowering in the 8th c., Yaxchilán seems, as far as can be gathered from glyphs which have been deciphered, to have ruled a number of other places in the surrounding area, e.g. Bonampak. Recently it has been possible to decipher glyphs which outline the chronicle of a dynasty, the legendary founder of which, "Jaguar penis" (Yat Balam), is thought to have ruled in ad 320. Some 130 monuments have been dated between ad 514 (stela 27) and ad 808 (lintel 10), three-quarters of which fall within the reigns of "Shield Jaguar" (ad 647-742, from 681 regent) and "Bird Jaguar II" (ad 709-771?, from 752 regent). Then follows "Shield Jaguar II" (ad 752-806?, from 771 regent). In common with all other sites in the Maya central region, Yaxchilán was abandoned, for reasons unknown, in the 9th c. ad. Until a few years ago nomadic Lacandon Indians still celebrated their ancient rites in the ruins of the temple palaces here.
Edwin Rockstroh was the first person to reach Yaxchilán from Guatemala in 1881; however, it was left to the Englishman Alfred P. Maudslay to discover the site for science one year later. He named the place Menché (Maya: "green tree"). With the approval of the Guatemalan government, which at that time was considered responsible for this area, Maudslay had seven door-lintels removed and these are now on display in the British Museum in London. Soon afterwards the Frenchman Désiré Charnay arrived, but it was the Austrian Teobert Maler, who worked here between 1897 and 1900, who gave the site its present name of Yaxchilán (Maya: "place of the green stones") which he took from the nearby river of the same name. At the beginning of the 20th c. the American archaeologists A.M. Tozzer, S.G. Morley and H. Spinden carried out scientific work here, while in the last few years valuable restoration work has been undertaken by the Mexican I.N.A.H. under the direction of Roberto García Moll.
The Ruins
Before visiting the site it is essential to consult the local tourist offices in order to ascertain conditions at the site and its accessibility. It is advisable to engage the services of a knowledgeable guide on the spot and to take appropriate equipment.
Overview
Only a very small proportion of the buildings, which are scattered along the Río Usumacinta and on the surrounding hills, have been excavated and restored. Most are still overgrown or, having been cleared, are now the property of the jungle again, so that access is very difficult. The groups of buildings are set out stepwise in four rows which stretch out from the river bank over the hilly ground to the west. The buildings display no particular architectural features; there are fewer pyramid temples than palaces, most of which have three entrances and two parallel passages. The upper parts of the faáades and the protruding roof-crests (cresterías) were once decorated with stucco and stone figures. As with the large Maya site of Palenque the roofs exhibit the so-called "mansard effect", with the roof combs rising in the middle.
Of great significance in Yaxchilán are the unique elaborate yet powerfully crafted reliefs which were carved into the stelae, altars, door-lintels and steps. So far, inscriptions have been found on no fewer than 125 of these stone panels. Their dates range from ad 454 to 807. The reliefs often show two figures, which apparently symbolise a change of power. The greater, more important personage has his face in profile, while his body and legs are represented frontally and his feet turned outwards. The second, considerably smaller figure is represented completely in profile. Other pictures in stone show prisoners, battle scenes, consecrational and sacrificial rites. Among the latter there is a preponderance of pictures of rulers and their consorts with barbed cords cutting through their tongues and genitalia. In the last few years the research work carried out by H. Berlin and T. Proskouriakoff has succeeded in partially deciphering the glyphs and thereby confirming the long-held suspicion that, in this unique way, historical events and personalities are being immortalised.
Quite a number of the stelae and altars are damaged or, together with many of the reliefs, have been transferred to the National Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City or abroad.
Related Attractions
First Row
The first row of buildings by the river bank include Building (Estructura) 18 with a stela, Building 16 with two door-lintels, the ball court with five sculptures and Building 5 with a hieroglyph staircase.
Fourth Row
Further upwards past the Palace of the King, the fourth row of buildings is reached (Buildings 39 to 41). This elevated site was once linked by a large flight of steps to a platform lying 100 m (330 ft) further down.
Great Acropolis
On a solitary hill stands a group of buildings, accessible by steps, which is known as the Great Acropolis (La Acrópolis Grande).
Palace of the King
Yaxchilán's most significant building is Building 33 or the Palace of the King (Edificio 33, Palacio del Rey), which probably dates from ad 757. This imposing building measures about 22 3 5 m (72 3 16 ft) with a height of 7 m (23 ft), with the roof comb protruding another 6 m (20 ft). The hieroglyph staircase discovered in 1974 has thirteen panels which show "Bird Jaguar" ascending the throne in ad 752. Eleven of the panels have scenes of ball-games, in which the ruler is beating people whose broken bodies are transformed into balls. Possibly a ball-game is being described here, which may have taken place in ad 744 between "Bird Jaguar" and his important prisoner "Jewel Head". The three entrances are decorated with door-beams which show scenes from the life of the ruler; there are also niches above them in which stone figures once sat. The frieze also shows remains of earlier embellishments. The double roof comb, which is especially beautiful, contains rectangular concavities which form eight horizontal rows. In the middle there once sat the 2.50 m (8 ft) high statue of a ruler with a magnificent head-dress. In front of the building stands the torso of a figure which was discovered inside the building, which has been called the "King" (Rey); the head of this statue lies a little to one side. Until a few years ago the Lacandon-Maya Indians worshipped their god Hachakyum, who they believed dwelt in this figure.
Second Row
To the south of the main square lies the second row of buildings, of which Building 19 or the "Labyrinth" with its two altars is the most remarkable. The building has several entrances, with rooms on two levels linked to one another, and the remains of a roof-comb (crestería). Building 22 is also known as the Temple of the Inscriptions and has an unusual door-lintel and two altars. Building 20 or the Temple of the Bird Sacrifices possesses three entrances, but only one of these is intact. It is crowned by an elaborate lintel which depicts three elevated persons in rich apparel.
Small Acropolis
To the north-west of the Palace of the King is the group of buildings known as the Small Acropolis (Acrópolis Pequeña), which is made up of Buildings 49 to 52.
Stela 11
Stela 11, which stands on the main square, was to have been taken to Mexico City in 1966, but proved too heavy for the available means of transport and so remained in Yaxchilán. This stone sculpture dates from between ad 743 and 755 and on the front-facing side shows the ruler "Bird Jaguar" ascending the throne, with a holy banner being exchanged between him (on the right) and his predecessor "Shield Jaguar". On the rear side of the stela "Bird Jaguar" can be seen standing over prisoners in chains. This picture underlines the fact that success at waging war was the foundation of the dynasty.
