Kohunlich 
How to get there
By car from Chetumal 58km/36mi on the MEX 186 to Francisco Villa, then take the road on the left (9km/5.6mi to the site).
The excavated area in the centre of the Maya site of Kohunlich lies amid primeval tropical forest, but in spite of its isolated situation it is one of the best maintained excavation sites in Mexico. This little known site of the early Classic period is easily acessible, and is well worth visiting for its beautiful setting as well as its archaeological interest.
By car from Chetumal 58km/36mi on the MEX 186 to Francisco Villa, then take the road on the left (9km/5.6mi to the site).
The excavated area in the centre of the Maya site of Kohunlich lies amid primeval tropical forest, but in spite of its isolated situation it is one of the best maintained excavation sites in Mexico. This little known site of the early Classic period is easily acessible, and is well worth visiting for its beautiful setting as well as its archaeological interest.
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Must-see attractions nearby:
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The name Kohunlich is a garbled version of the English name "Cohoon Ridge"; the Spanish name is Aserradero ("sawmill").
History
Little is known of the early history of the site, or of the neighbouring Río Bec area. Kohunlich was undoubtedly occupied for several centuries before the beginning of the Christian era and continued in occupation until the 13th c., i.e. from the Formative to the Post-Classic period. Its heyday as a religious and political centre lay between ad 400 and 930; basically, therefore, it is a site of the early Maya Classic period.
The site was first recorded by the U.S. archeologist R. E. Merwin in the course of an archaeological survey of southern Campeche in 1912. The real discovery of the site, however, came in 1968, when plunderers were caught in the act of stealing the large masks on the Temple of the Masks. Since then exemplary excavation and restoration work has been carried out by Mexican archaeologists under the direction of Victor Segovia.
The Ruins
The area so far explored at Kohunlich covers more than 2sq.km/.75sq.mi. The earlier occupants of the site levelled and consolidated almost half the total area, using and extending natural ditches and depressions to channel rainwater into collecting basins for use during the dry period.
History
Little is known of the early history of the site, or of the neighbouring Río Bec area. Kohunlich was undoubtedly occupied for several centuries before the beginning of the Christian era and continued in occupation until the 13th c., i.e. from the Formative to the Post-Classic period. Its heyday as a religious and political centre lay between ad 400 and 930; basically, therefore, it is a site of the early Maya Classic period.
The site was first recorded by the U.S. archeologist R. E. Merwin in the course of an archaeological survey of southern Campeche in 1912. The real discovery of the site, however, came in 1968, when plunderers were caught in the act of stealing the large masks on the Temple of the Masks. Since then exemplary excavation and restoration work has been carried out by Mexican archaeologists under the direction of Victor Segovia.
The Ruins
The area so far explored at Kohunlich covers more than 2sq.km/.75sq.mi. The earlier occupants of the site levelled and consolidated almost half the total area, using and extending natural ditches and depressions to channel rainwater into collecting basins for use during the dry period.
Related Attractions
Ball Court
The Ball Court (Juego de Pelota) has a wall 33 m (110 ft) long, with no stone rings. It is similar in structure to the ball courts of Copán in the Honduras and Becán in Campeche state.
East Building
The large Plaza of the Stelae (Plaza de las Estelas) is named after the four monolithic stelae which were found in the East Building (Edificio Oriente) and are now set on either side of the staircase. The East Building, like the three others around the square, dates from the 8th c. ad, It is 60 m (200 ft) long, with nine tiers leading up to a temple on the summit. Of the original three doors only the middle one, the main entrance, survives.
North Building
The North Building (Edificio Norte), 70 m (230 ft) long, has a staircase leading to another plaza on the west side of the building, which gives access to a patio 10 m (33 ft) above ground level, with an area of 2500 sq. m (3000 sq. yd).
Pyramid of the Masks
The most interesting structure at Kohunlich, unique of its kind in Maya territory, is the Pyramid of the Masks (Pirámide de los Mascarones). Excavations originally disclosed eight large stucco masks flanking the staircase, of which five still exist and are now protected from the weather by roofs.
The Pyramid and the masks date from the 5th c. ad Within the upper part of the pyramid, on different levels, were found four tomb chambers which had been looted by tomb-robbers. The six masks, all different, are about 1.60 m (5ft 3 in.) high and appear to represent the sun god. Their tall headresses portray a mythological creature with eyes of spiral form. Some of the eyes bear the glyph "chuen", representing the trolkin, the Maya ritual year of 260 days. As was usual with Maya nobles, the noses are ornamented with rings. The teeth originally had an L-shaped inlay, now barely visible, representing the glyph "ik" (wind). Interestingly, the feline-like mouths, with the twirling moustaches of the rain god, display Olmec characteristics. All the masks have ear-rings and ear-plugs, the sides of which are formed by snakes, perhaps representing rain. Traces of red paint are still discernible.
About twenty years ago one of the masks was stolen and, after being hardened with artificial resin, was cut into small pieces and smuggled into the USA. There it was put together again and offered to a New York museum for a considerable sum. The museum informed the Mexican government, which was then able to recover the mask. It can now be seen in the National Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City.
A little way below the excavated area lies a picturesque little lagoon.
The Pyramid and the masks date from the 5th c. ad Within the upper part of the pyramid, on different levels, were found four tomb chambers which had been looted by tomb-robbers. The six masks, all different, are about 1.60 m (5ft 3 in.) high and appear to represent the sun god. Their tall headresses portray a mythological creature with eyes of spiral form. Some of the eyes bear the glyph "chuen", representing the trolkin, the Maya ritual year of 260 days. As was usual with Maya nobles, the noses are ornamented with rings. The teeth originally had an L-shaped inlay, now barely visible, representing the glyph "ik" (wind). Interestingly, the feline-like mouths, with the twirling moustaches of the rain god, display Olmec characteristics. All the masks have ear-rings and ear-plugs, the sides of which are formed by snakes, perhaps representing rain. Traces of red paint are still discernible.
About twenty years ago one of the masks was stolen and, after being hardened with artificial resin, was cut into small pieces and smuggled into the USA. There it was put together again and offered to a New York museum for a considerable sum. The museum informed the Mexican government, which was then able to recover the mask. It can now be seen in the National Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City.
A little way below the excavated area lies a picturesque little lagoon.
South Building
The South Building (Edificio Sur) is 87 m (285 ft) in length and boasts a very long staircase formed of nine unusually broad steps.
West Building
The West Building (Edificio Poniente), almost 50 m (165 ft) long, has a short side staircase of five steps which leads through a small passage to the front platform, evidently intended to serve as a stage for ceremonies.
