Switzerland - Mountaineering

Other indispensable items are sunglasses, sunburn cream (and for many people also a lip cream) and adhesive bandages. The guides are subject to control by the Swiss Alpine Club and the cantonal authorities, who issue guides' licenses only after testing their competence. The regulations on charges, food, carrying of luggage, etc., may vary from canton to canton, it is desirable, therefore, before engaging a guide to ask to see the list of charges and the local regulations and to check that the guide is insured. Climbing without a guide is now very common; but it should be attempted only by climbers whose own competence on rock and ice, judgment and fitness are not much below those of the professional guides, or who are climbing with experienced Alpine mountaineers. Many accidents occur through a climber's ignorance of the hidden dangers in an apparently easy route, through losing the way when there is a sudden change in the weather or as a result of inadequate equipment. In the high mountains no one should climb alone; but it is also necessary to be wary of uninvited companions, who may give rise to grave difficulties or dangers. In the climbs mentioned on this CD the need for a guide is indicated where appropriate.

Glaciers must be crossed early in the day, before the sun softens the snow covering the crevasses. Even experienced climbers should never tackle a glacier without a guide and a rope.

At altitudes above 4,000 m (13,124ft) or so, and for some people even below this, mountain sickness can be a problem. The symptoms are palpitations, dizziness, loss of consciousness and bleeding from the mouth and nose. The best remedies are rest, stimulants and, most effective of all, an immediate descent to a lower altitude.

Weather conditions in the Alps, particularly on their northwestern and northern slopes, are unreliable and full of potential danger for the climber. Two generally accepted indications of good weather are a fall in temperature in the evening, when the wind blows down into the valley after blowing up on to the mountains during the day, and a fresh fall of snow on the peaks. The "föhn" which makes the mountains appear nearer and dark blue in color, often brings a long period of beautiful weather, though this may change suddenly at any time. Signs of bad weather are the appearance of cirrus clouds moving fromwest to east (even though they may disappear in the early afternoon), swirls of dust on the roads and driving snow on the ridges and peaks when the weather is otherwise good. In rainy weather there is increased danger of rock falls. In the event of a thunderstorm do not stand under isolated trees, haystacks, etc., in view of the danger of being struck by lightning; come down from the peaks and ridges at once, and keep away from running water.

Weather forecasts are posted up at stations and post offices and given daily on the radio. They can also be obtained by telephone (dial 162).

Alpenglow (German Alpenglühen) is the reddish light cast by the setting sun on the rocky and snow-covered summits; in particular it is the afterglow of yellow, purple and violet hues which occurs 5-10minutes after sunset when there is a slight build-up of clouds in the west and twilight has already fallen in the valleys.

The international Alpine distress signal, for climbers who need help, is a series of six signals given at regular intervals within a minute by whatever means are available (blasts on a whistle, shouts, flashes of a torch, waves of some conspicuous article), followed by a minute's pause, a repetition of the signals, and so on until an answer is received. The answer takes the form of three signals at regular intervals within a minute. The Swiss Alpine Club has established a large number of rescue stations and reporting posts to ensure that in the event of an accident help can be summoned quickly.

The Swiss Alpine Club, founded in 1863, maintains some 150 mountain huts, which are open to non-members as well as members of the club. In some of them there are limited facilities for obtaining food during the summer; in most of them, however, there is no warden, and it is, therefore, necessary to inquire in the valley below about the means of gaining access, and sometimes to take the key with you. The charges for overnight accommodation are posted up in the huts.

There are a number of excellently run climbing schools in Switzerland, providing instruction both for beginners and for those who want to learn specialized techniques. In most schools it is also possible to obtain guides. There are such schools, for example, at Wildhaus, Andermatt, Davos, Les Diablerets, Fiesch, La Fouly/Verbier, Grindelwald, Klosters, Pontresina, Meiringen, Kandersteg/Schwarenbach, Arolla and Villars-Chesièrs.