Carmel, California

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second Californian mission which was originally built in Monterey. On instructions from the Mexican viceroy, he pushed on from here to Monterey, the northernmost point of his journey. Carmel grew only slowly; at the beginning of the 20th century it was still an unimportant village with cattle grazing nearby.

Importance

Carmel was then discovered by painters, writers and photographers, who chose to live there, but its fame had not yet spread beyond the borders of California. It did not fully develop into a mass-tourist attraction until after the Second World War. Today it is world famous, not least because in 1986 the film star Clint Eastwood was elected mayor for a time.

Tradition

The long-lasting struggle between those advocating increased growth and those supporting the status quo finally led to a compromise, as a result of which Carmel changed only slightly and was able to retain its distinctive charm, with its houses clearly influenced by English village architecture. You will look in vain here for street lights or neon signs; there are still only very few pavements; the houses have no numbers (directions read "north of Ocean Avenue" or "west of San Carlos"); Monterey pines grow in the center; no post is delivered (all the inhabitants collect it from the post office at the southeast corner of 5th and Dolores Street); there is a law against wearing high heels; eating in the street is forbidden; there are no parking meters, no large garages and no high-rise buildings; parking in the streets is restricted to one or two hours, and the streets are patrolled by 26 local policemen and policewomen.

Tourism

Carmel has more than 50 restaurants (fast-food restaurants such as McDonalds and Kentucky Fried Chicken are not allowed), about 70 galleries and 40 real-estate agents. The total of some 1200 shops and service establishments are in a ratio of one to every four inhabitants, but are aimed at the large number of tourists who spend many millions of dollars here every year. In the high season especially - some 50,000 cars drive through Carmel in one day at the weekend - the stream of visitors is overwhelming.

This combination of cozy informality and mass tourism is Carmel's unique secret. The bulk of the visitors stay in the square mile of the town center. Only a few venture out into the residential areas or on to the small but beautiful beach. In contrast to many other places in California, Carmel does not depend on outstanding individual attractions, but rather on its effect as a whole, and this is what makes a visit there worthwhile. The weather is mild all the year. 300 days of sunshine each year is the norm. However, there is often a morning mist in the months of July (21 days), August (22) and September (16).

Anybody who wishes to escape the mist in Carmel can pitch his tent in Carmel Valley, a few miles to the southeast (reached by Route G 16, a turn-off from the U.S. 1). Situated by the River Carmel, quite apart from its proximity to the town, Carmel Valley offers many sporting facilities, such as fishing and swimming. Here, too, you will find the largest Zen monastery in the United States of America.