Lake Ichkeul

35km/22mi southwest of Bizerte on GP 11 (the Mateur road) lies Lake Ichkeul (area 110sq.km/42sq.mi), a lake well stocked with fish which is fed by streams flowing down from the Mogod uplands and is linked with the Lac de Bizerte by the Oued Tindja. It is unusual in having water which is partly fresh and partly salt. When there is heavy rain the proportion of fresh water rises, while during the dry summer months the proportion of salt water increases. On the south side of the lake is a large nature reserve, dominated by the bulk of Djebel Ichkeul (511m/1,677ft). On its most northerly foothill is the recently opened Museum of Ecology (information about the National Park). This oasis of marshland is the home of many interesting plants, including pink and pale purple garlic, occasional fritillaries with bell-shaped flowers ranging in color from crimson to yellowish-green, various species of rushes, bog asphodels, irises, reeds and waterlilies. It is also the haunt of countless waterfowl and small numbers of water buffaloes, Tunisia's largest mammals (1.80m/6ft high, weighing well over a ton), now an endangered species.

During the winter months, when heavy rainfall makes the lake flood its shores and the marshland flora begins to bloom, hundreds of thousands of migrant birds from Europe settle here for the winter.

Only experienced motorists should try to drive round Djebel Ichkeul, for the track is difficult to negotiate. For a trip of any length it is advisable to take a local guide. Information and advice can be obtained from the tourist information office in Bizerte.

The unstable ecological balance of Lake Ichkeul is now being threatened by the dams that have recently been constructed. Excessive quantities of water are being drained away to meet the needs of the tourist centers and the lake is threatening to dry up. There is a conflict of interests here calling urgently for a solution, which will not be easy to find.