Cooktown (pop. 1300) was the first - though very temporary - white settlement on the east coast of Australia. In 1770 Captain Cook had to beach the Endeavor here for repair after running aground on a coral reef, and the crew lived ashore in tents for seven weeks.
In 1872 gold was found on the Palmer River, and within a short time Cooktown
became the port for the Palmer goldfields, with almost 100 bars, hotels and a main street 3km long. By 1900 the gold was worked out, and the town in its remote situation on the Cape York Peninsula sank almost into oblivion.
Nowadays the steadily increasing tourist interest in the far north of Queensland has reached Cooktown. The town has accommodation for visitors and can be reached by boat, by air or, in dry weather, overland. Tourism is slowly but steadily becoming an important element in the town's economy. There are now organized trips to Cooktown by boat from Cairns and Port Douglas.
Most of the buildings of the gold-mining period have disappeared. The James Cook Historical Museum in Helen Street, a richly decorated brick building of 1887-8, has interesting displays on Cook's life and voyages.
A Chinese shrine commemorates the many Chinese who died in the goldfields. In the cemetery in Charlotte Street is the grave of Mrs Mary Watson, an early settler who recorded her tragic flight from the Aborigines on Lizard Island in her diary.
The Discovery Festival held annually in June celebrates Cook's landing with a re-enactment.