A circuit ( round trip from Wassen) of the Susten, Grimsel and Furka passes offers a breathtaking experience, combining splendid Alpine scenery with the tremendous technical achievements of the road engineers.
The newest of the three roads, the boldly engineered Susten road (No 11), built between 1938 and 1946, runs up from Wassen through the wildly beautiful Meiental, goes over the Susten pass in a tunnel (2,224 m/7,297ft) just under the summit and descends the Gadmen valley, passing close to the Stein glacier, to Innertkirchen, where it leaves the magnificence of this high Alpine valley for a gentler landscape of pastureland and orchards.
The Grimsel road (No 6), built in 1891-94, which links the Bernese Oberland with Upper Valais (the Upper Rhône valley) and the Furka, starts from Innertkirchen (626 m/2,054ft), in a beautiful setting of forest and Alpine meadows, and runs up the attractive Hasli valley.
Above Guttannen this becomes narrower and wilder, until at Handegg the trees disappear altogether and the road continues to climb through a bare rocky wilderness, past massive dams and narrow fjord-like reservoirs. From the Grimsel pass (2,165 m/7,013ft), the lowest of the three passes, the road runs down, with many hairpin bends, to Gletsch (1763 m/ 5784ft), in the Upper Rhône valley. From here the Furka road (No 19), built in 1864-66, leads up through the bare upper reaches of the valley, passes immediately under the Rhône glacier and continues up to the Furka pass (2,431 m/7,976ft), the highest point on the trip. It then continues down into the Urseren valley through scenery of a different type, with rugged mountains of uncompromising bulk.
All three roads are well built and excellently engineered, particularly the Susten road (minimum width 6 m/20ft, well-cambered bends, maximum gradient 8%). The Grimsel road, with its many bends, has been modernized (4-7 m/13-23ft wide, maximum gradient 9%). The Furka road (improved 1960-63; 4-8 m/13-26ft wide) is the steepest of the three (10%); the stiffest gradients are mostly on the bends, and in the thinner air at this altitude they make particularly heavy demands on the engine of a car. The round trip involves an ascent of some 3,600 m/11,812ft with about 60 sharp bends. Motorists who are unused to Alpine driving should exercise particular care. All three passes are usually open from mid June to mid October (emergency telephones).
In Gletsch the Furka road crosses the Rhône and then climbs (three sharp bends) up the south side of the valley and follows the slope, with fine views of Gletsch and the Grimsel road to the rear and of the Rhône glacier ahead.
From the Seeuferegg dam the Grimsel road skirts the east end of the Grimselsee and then climbs on a moderate gradient (four sharp bends), with magnificent views to the rear (Grosser Schreckhorn, to the west, 4,080 m/13,386ft). 3.5km/2mi farther on is the Grimsel pass (2,165 m/7,103ft; Hotel Grimselblick, 80b.), on the boundary between the cantons of Berne and Valais, with beautiful views of the Valais Alps, particularly the Gries glacier.
The Susten road, branching off the St Gotthard road at Wassen, runs uphill at a moderate gradient, with an attractive view of Wassen church to the rear. In 0.5km/0.25mi it winds its way through two tunnels, between which is another view of Wassen.
The Grimsel road proper, which begins at Guttanen, follows a fairly straight and gentle course up the valley for a kilometer or so, begins to climb more steeply through the forest and crosses the river on the Tschingel bridge (1,140 m/3,740ft). It then passes rugged black crags and massive accumulations of debris which bear witness to the violence of the avalanches and the rushing torrents, returns by the Schwarzbrunnen bridge to the left bank (1,217 m/3,993ft) and continues around the rocky bulk of the Stäubender. The compensation reservoir of the Handegg I hydro-electric station is passed on the left (1,309 m/4,295ft).
Above the dam of Räterischsboden reservoir, to the right, is the reservoir itself, (1767 m/5798ft), which Grimsel road skirts, offering a view of the Grimselsee dam. Near the end of the lake the road passes through a short tunnel.